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Post by jellerby on Jul 29, 2016 20:10:09 GMT
I was riding my scoot and all of a sudden it cut out, started again and cut out, it's hard to start at times.. Am I right thinking it's the carb? I'm planning on doing a full carb rebuild. My first time rebuilding it
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Post by doulsy on Jul 29, 2016 20:12:39 GMT
maybe just need a clean, i had similar issues recently, try a new plug also.
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Post by johnnymarr on Jul 30, 2016 3:18:45 GMT
hi,hopefully carb and cleaning both jets should do it and as Doulsy said check the plugI just did my first rebuild and it wasn't as difficult as i thought would be... I used these videos for actual rebuild though you have to do a few small things before removing carb
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Post by jellerby on Jul 31, 2016 13:17:30 GMT
Thanks for the vids Johnny, planning my rebuild either tonight or Wednesday night. I've been out running on it today, I've ran in on reserve as it doesn't cut out. Any ideas? It's also idling very high, even when I turn the idle screw down a little, it idles high at stops..
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Post by vespasco on Jul 31, 2016 19:40:18 GMT
that does not sound too good. hopefully you just need to re-adjust your carb... but check for leaks around the carb base and at the head. if it's revving high at stops then fuel is getting through ok but so is too much air, from somewhere it shouldn't be.
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Post by doulsy on Jul 31, 2016 19:47:06 GMT
that does not sound too good. hopefully you just need to re-adjust your carb... but check for leaks around the carb base and at the head. if it's revving high at stops then fuel is getting through ok but so is too much air, from somewhere it shouldn't be. aye, air leak?
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Post by vespasco on Jul 31, 2016 19:50:02 GMT
Hopefully its something simple, like a loose plug but from those symptoms, revving high at stops, is likely a badly adjusted carb or an air leak
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Post by doulsy on Jul 31, 2016 19:58:47 GMT
had a few issues in the past with high revs both times it was the carb, amazing what i new gasket does.
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Post by johnnymarr on Aug 1, 2016 0:29:20 GMT
just add to vespaco and doulsy i would first make sure the bellows/air intake hose is on properly and hasn't developed any bad splits as well as checking rubber seal around airbox/carb cover that idle screw goes through,make sure its in good condition and firmly sealed the whole way round the box.its the two screws either side of idle screw to take off...you will need to do this anyway to clean your carb and im wondering if your choke could be sticking? so clean that and throttle linkage too
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Post by johnnymarr on Aug 1, 2016 0:30:41 GMT
meant to say i notice you said you only turned idle down a little? it takes a bit of time between turns to take effect so it could be that? have you tried to turn it down more than a little? and remember it takes a bit of time between turns
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Post by jellerby on Aug 4, 2016 12:07:42 GMT
Attempted rebuild, missing tool has stopped progress. Attached fuel hose again and tightened one nut down and attached choke. Attempted to start and now dies every time.. I don't know what to do now unfortunately
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Post by djloone on Aug 4, 2016 14:31:11 GMT
When you say tightend 1 nut..if its 1 holding the carb on..they both need too be on and tight or your gonna be sucking air as soon as she strikes up...and will die LOON-E
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Post by pxguru on Aug 4, 2016 14:46:04 GMT
Can you do a short description of what happens when starting it? And a short list what you have already tried?
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Post by jellerby on Aug 4, 2016 15:00:25 GMT
When you say tightend 1 nut..if its 1 holding the carb on..they both need too be on and tight or your gonna be sucking air as soon as she strikes up...and will die LOON-E I only untightened one of the nuts holding the carb down and as I couldn't get the other one. I tightened it back up and put it choke and fuel line back?
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Post by jellerby on Aug 4, 2016 15:01:48 GMT
Can you do a short description of what happens when starting it? And a short list what you have already tried? It starts 3-4 kicks but doesn't idle unless throttle is turned. The idle screw doesn't seem to do anything. Tried it with petrol on and reserve. Im thinking of taking the main jet and blowing it out along with idle screw
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Post by pxguru on Aug 4, 2016 15:22:24 GMT
How many turns out is the mixture screw in the back of the carb?
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Post by jellerby on Aug 4, 2016 16:22:11 GMT
How many turns out is the mixture screw in the back of the carb? Just checked, I'd say half a turn out maybe a little less than half. Isn't it supposed to be two and a half?
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Post by johnnymarr on Aug 4, 2016 17:10:09 GMT
hi, sure its 2.5 turns as starting point if screw is brass hexhead (thanks H). i also struggled with the right hand side nut especially , difficult to access and turn allen bolt...you will need to do this surely im a newbie to all this but pxguru and really know their stuff
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Post by jellerby on Aug 4, 2016 17:41:30 GMT
My mixture screw is just a flathead?
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Post by pxguru on Aug 4, 2016 19:22:58 GMT
Flat head should be at least 1.5 turns out
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Post by jellerby on Aug 5, 2016 21:32:00 GMT
Finished the rebuild and went out on the scooter, all runs fine. Same problem as before still, scooter won't start after it's been ridden. Rode it maybe two minutes down road, switched off and tried starting and nothing. Will bump start though. Any ideas? Stator? CDI dying? Starts fine when cold..
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Post by henri on Aug 6, 2016 7:02:11 GMT
hard starting when warms often a too large a pilot jet/rich mixture ,or sticking choke . when ya bump it does it pop n fart then "clear its throat" an rev . H
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Post by jellerby on Aug 6, 2016 16:14:15 GMT
hard starting when warms often a too large a pilot jet/rich mixture ,or sticking choke . when ya bump it does it pop n fart then "clear its throat" an rev . H I wouldn't say it would Henri, no. What would be symptoms of a sticking choke? (Accept hard starting when warm) I'm not sure on how I'd figure that out.. Could you give a small introduction too it please? Also what pilot jet would you recommend for a P2? (All stock apart from SIP Road II)
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Post by henri on Aug 7, 2016 7:45:59 GMT
stuck choke , hard to start warm,if not impossible ,clouds of white smoke from over-fuelling .or a scoot thats starts from cold easily without using choke an runs til hot then dies at tickover an wont re-start . stock on a p2's a 55/100 , an ive only ever changed a main jet when switching to a sip road ,left the rest as stock. H
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Post by jellerby on Aug 7, 2016 10:34:13 GMT
stuck choke , hard to start warm,if not impossible ,clouds of white smoke from over-fuelling .or a scoot thats starts from cold easily without using choke an runs til hot then dies at tickover an wont re-start . stock on a p2's a 55/100 , an ive only ever changed a main jet when switching to a sip road ,left the rest as stock. H I'll try a 55/100, the main jet I'm using now is a 118, stock 116. I'll also try a new plug as I'm running a 7, I was told to use an 8.
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Post by henri on Aug 7, 2016 10:54:35 GMT
stick with the bh7 es , for a p200 , unless planning on sustained high revs motorway work . H
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Post by jellerby on Aug 7, 2016 11:23:17 GMT
stick with the bh7 es , for a p200 , unless planning on sustained high revs motorway work . H Do you recommended the long thread or short? Mines a long. Trying to find a 55/100 pilot, can't seem to find one.
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Post by sime66 on Aug 7, 2016 11:49:54 GMT
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Post by jellerby on Aug 7, 2016 19:33:42 GMT
Thanks for the links Sime.
I think there may be a problem with the carb. I think the needle is stuck? There seems to be fuel coming from the exhaust? Now it won't start
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Post by sime66 on Aug 8, 2016 5:45:37 GMT
I haven’t been in on this from the start, so don’t know the full story without reading back, but dealing with the current problem; there are two things, either of which should stop fuel coming out of your exhaust:
* Turning tap off properly – Do you turn it off? Is it turning off and shutting off fuel completely? * Carb float needle should also close-off fuel flow – You can remove and inspect this; did you just take your carb apart and overhaul it? You should have checked your float and needle valve then; did you? We can take you through checking your float and needle without taking carb out (again?), but you’d be better off starting by being very clear what you have and haven’t done so far. Seems to me you’ve got lots of ideas being suggested to you, but you’re not being clear on what you’ve already done, or how thoroughly; most stuff can be sorted, but advice is only going to be as good as info provided.
As you’ve made a start on the carb, and as that will fix your fuel in the exhaust problem, which will also get you running again so you can deal with any other stuff, lets go through that job thoroughly before moving on.
1. Have you taken carb off scoot? 2. Did tap hold fuel when you did that? 3. Did you strip carb as those videos? 4. Inspect for wear and free movement of moving parts? 5. Replace needle valve? (with red tipped one?) 6. Check float for leaks? Free-movement? 7. Replace internal carb gaskets? 8. Blow-through jets (all three?) 9. Blow through all channels? 10. Check carb body for flat underside? 11. Bolt all bits back exactly as they were? 12. Check fillet screw still holding carb box securely? 13. Use a new Carb to carb box gasket? 14. Bolt carb bolts down evenly to correct torque? 15. Use two new fibre washers on Banjo? 16. Check fuel line and banjo clip? 17. Reconnect choke and make sure it was moving freely? 18. Reconnect throttle cable and make sure it was moving freely? 19. Replace filter and screw down? 20. Put your Idle and Mix screws back, either as they were before, or to standard start-point turns out? 21. Make sure all carb rubber grommets were in place (including main lid one) before screwing lid back on?
If you’ve done all that, and your tap held when you took carb off, and you’re turning the tap off properly, and you’ve still got fuel in your exhaust, then something’s possibly wrong with the carb (and the tap if you’re turning it off too; either should stop that), but I suspect the answer lies above - that’s the answer to fuel in exhaust, not the rest of your problem, which needs pinning down, but does look like carb/fuel, rather than anything else. Take one job at a time and do it properly before moving on.
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