pecker
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Post by pecker on Apr 4, 2017 11:05:04 GMT
Trying to suss out how to show some pictures, not quite there, how do i get the photos to reveal automatically (via flickr), tried uploading directly via own photo book but said even one photo was to big, HELP PLEASE. pek.
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Post by mushroom on Apr 4, 2017 12:02:45 GMT
You need to click on the pic in flickr, then share, then BBcode and choose a size from the pull down menu . Then copy the code. In your post on here just right click and paste Sorted VespaPbrochure by Dave Gale, on Flickr
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pecker
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Posts: 65
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Post by pecker on Apr 4, 2017 20:43:45 GMT
Thanks mushroom, hopefully i will be able to suss out, as been wanting to put some pics up for a while, I do like the nice cheerie photo you put up, made my day. Cheers Pek
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Post by pxguru on Apr 5, 2017 6:23:03 GMT
I saw the plug picture and not looking so bad, especially as it is running lean and it hasn't seized up.
If that is from a 1/4 throttle plug chop, I would try a 55/160 IJ and a B7HS plug next. The plug itself is not getting quite hot enough and the jetting does look slightly lean for safe riding.
Must be feeling good to ride though?
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Post by mushroom on Apr 5, 2017 6:56:31 GMT
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pecker
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Posts: 65
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Post by pecker on Apr 5, 2017 21:43:34 GMT
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pecker
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 65
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Post by pecker on Apr 5, 2017 21:56:03 GMT
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pecker
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 65
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Post by pecker on Apr 5, 2017 22:04:12 GMT
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pecker
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 65
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Post by pecker on Apr 5, 2017 22:13:09 GMT
I,m going to ask my engine builder/friend if i can book in for carb drilling trick next, as think now is correct time to have done, Really enjoyable to ride at the moment.
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pecker
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Posts: 65
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Post by pecker on Apr 9, 2017 13:34:10 GMT
Hello everyone,can you please describe the correct procedure regarding the carb drilling mod,thankyou.
Sorry pxg that I did not directly reply to your previous post, the photo you looked at was taken from when pulled to stop/parked after getting home from when bike was made better, using a clean plug that i could find.
Went for a nice ride this morning with exiles sc (Exeter) and all going very nice. As always all the best Pek.
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Post by pxguru on Apr 10, 2017 15:39:38 GMT
Plug is looking ok to leave if it feels good. Slightly lean for me but as it gets hotter it will be a bit richer anyway.
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pecker
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Posts: 65
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Post by pecker on Jun 6, 2017 22:51:17 GMT
How you doing everyone, hope your all well. My bike has just sailed through its MOT test, so i thought may be a good time to give an update on my situation. Back on 22nd April i was excited on route to a friends house to let him know how good my bike was going..... Being a little c**ky on a duel- carriageway travelling at 68mph,ish over taking a few cars, IT ALL WENT PEAR SHAPED. I managed to MELT my piston and after a very sweaty two mile push to next slip road my bike was transported on the back of a pick truck and left in my friends naughty corner. I think the cause of the episode was down to three possibilities: (1) A to weak main jet. (2) Or (your going to tell me off for this) when out and about one day previous to episode i thought it might be a good idea to top up fuel, at petrol station i put in the tank oil enough for five litres (150ml), well i misjudged how full tank was and could only fit three litres in. Well then SILLY me thinks after riding for sometime it would be good idea to put some petrol i had in a can in my shed in the tank to some how even it up a bit. (3) The possible weak MJ and leaned out petrol mix was a deadly c**ktail. So after thinking of next plan action i brushed myself down and ordered a new piston and a few other bits, i was able to use again the first barrel i used on this journey ( 140 miles on it). For about four weeks i have been riding newly built motor ( including new 22 tooth clutch centre) having started quite rich on both MJ and IJ and gradually raising revs and speed checking plug along the way. As of yesterday i have got to this setup: IJ 50/160 AC 160 MJ 135. Today i have been testing with a AC 185, First impressions was of a much more responsive throttle, on flat road very lively and reaching upto 60mph very quickly checking plug looked good. But going up hill was getting hotter and hotter(also into a massive head wind) so sort of bailed out, dropped revs. General riding around behind cars at around 30mph,ish-40mph,ish getting temps of about 100c's At the moment got a nice bit of time available for riding so will be back out tomorrow investigating.(better weather hopefully) PXGURU or SIME66 is there anything in particular i should be looking out for regarding using a bigger AC, (or just a case of checking plug regularly) ? As always All the best PEK .
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pecker
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Posts: 65
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Post by pecker on Jun 6, 2017 22:57:31 GMT
Sorry EDIT MJ is 130. pek
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Post by jimscoot on Jun 7, 2017 9:30:49 GMT
Hey Pek. I feel your pain but no matter what I did to my si24 to try and supply more fuel it would never run right and would eventually start pinging at highway speeds. The Malossi 166 needs a lot more fuel and air to perform at its peak and keep temps in check
I resigned to the fact that this kit needs a reed valve and a much bigger carb to run properly so I did just that. The results are amazing and the power is endless. My temperatures are way lower yet I'm going a dam site quicker.
It's a big job converting to reed valve grinding away the inlet, not knowing how far to go, but i adopted the measuring twice and cutting once method and patience paid off in the end.I've also recently upgraded to an ultra strong Sip clutch basket and reinforced springs because the clutch was slipping as soon as the powerband hit. Now the power wheelies are insane.
Once you've done it you'll never look back
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pecker
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Posts: 65
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Post by pecker on Jun 7, 2017 10:17:03 GMT
Cheers jimscoot for your response, i think the malossi really is a bit of an animal, the more you do the better it gets. I have taken on board your thoughts regarding divorcing Mrs SI Talking to my friend we have discussed the possibility of going down the reed valve road and acknowledge its the ultimate.
As you say you will never look back, is most defiantly the case, its also true i believe that your not allowed back any way because SI carb would not fit after work to fit reed valve set up.
I purchased the sip touren 1700g fly wheel recently so that will be popped on soon also.
Well the suns shining and the high winds have gone, so i,m of for a ride.
PEK.
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Post by pxguru on Jun 7, 2017 11:53:53 GMT
Shame about the piston melting, they always seem to go really well just before an incident. Must have been pinking like crazy for that to happen. Pinking is not a loud noise but over the years you ear gets tuned to it and the little tinkling noise of doom sounds like a siren.
The two usual reasons for a WOT incident are either ignition timing or main jet. Setting up SI carbs to tuned engines is a challenge. This 2mm drilling that we are doing in the float bowl to MJ is a big help. If a 2mm drilled carb with a 150 MJ will not cause a WOT splutter then a big boys carb is the only option. If the SI will go over rich at WOT, then it is just a case of getting the AC and Atomiser correct. Not easy and highly confusing and I can understand why people give up.
I avoid reeds at all costs. Like a last resort if the engine really needs a 34mm or 38mm carb. I don't like a scooter to sound like a motorbike and secondly reeds don't make quite as much top end power as a rotary valve (but mid range in the wheelie zone is stronger).
Have another go at setting up the SI. If you set the jets in the right sequence it is a little simpler. Timing on the IT mark is usually ok.
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pecker
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Post by pecker on Jun 7, 2017 20:05:43 GMT
Thanks PXG for the response, i really do have my heart set on some what blaming the incident on me stupidly adding that petrol and weakening the petrol/oil mix.
I discussed the matter of the carb mod during re-build time with my friend, there was some slight fettling carried out, but for what we could make out there was enough bore size of holes when inserted with 2mm bit.(carb bought from wasp)
After re-build i used rich ij's such as 52/140 and 55/160 for some time, but was a nightmare to use very often terribly boggy when starting(not revving out). Using the 50/160 clears it all completely. Riding a little so far with bigger AC does feel different and a bit scary, looking at temps and general feel of things i may try dropping back a bit on IJ and up a bit on MJ just out of curiosity. (before running back to Mr 160AC)
Just before i forget, regarding temperature shown on SIP speedo before starting (ambient i think) would all you guys that use one say that it is spot on or slightly cooler/warmer, mine i think shows slightly cooler. I do appreciate any feedback. PEK
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Post by jimscoot on Jun 7, 2017 22:44:37 GMT
Its the pick up ring on the plug that sits higher on the sip version. So Sitting up more in the main airstream cooling it off at higher fan speeds. The tto gauge seems to give more consistent results and always reading 20/30 degrees higher than a koso gauge. We are always comparing temps on rallies and this is always the case
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Post by pxguru on Jun 8, 2017 5:12:54 GMT
Jimscoot, 20/30 degrees F or C?
Pecker, Before you get yourself in trouble again, the AC is the most serious thing you can change in an SI carb. When the AC is changed the MJ will need to be changed and re checked at WOT. Like for example a 130MJ on an 160AC will need to be a 135MJ on a 185AC just to be the similar at WOT. Consider changing the SI carb AC to be like changing needle diameter on a PHBH carb, it's a serious thing to do that affects all other adjustments.
To check the 2mm drilling, the drill bit should go right through from the float bowl to the main jet. You should be able to see it when you look down the jet stack hole.
To make things a bit easier, on a normal set up, the pilot jet is selected by riding with the throttle just open 1-2mm. At this throttle position the pilot jet is doing its main job (and the mixture screw is now bypassed- ie no affect, as pilot is now fully opened ). Once the pilot jet is selected to run well at 1-2mm throttle this is it done. Changing other things like Atomiser and AC will affect it, so may need to be re-visited but go back to riding at 1-2mm throttle and see if it needs touching but usually just a trim of the mixture screw at fast tickover is all that is needed.
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pecker
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Post by pecker on Jun 8, 2017 9:56:14 GMT
Thankyou PXG all taken very much on board.
Can i press you guys slightly firmer regarding the temp reading ( at cold/ before any starting/) in relation to ambient,or is this matter not really worth worrying about. PEK
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Post by sime66 on Jun 8, 2017 10:40:56 GMT
Hi Pek; I’ll get onto your stuff more over the weekend if there’s anything that hasn’t already been answered by pxguru, though I pretty much follow his advice anyway, and he’s answering your questions. This CHT ambient thing is no biggy; on my threads I record what CHT gauge says with cold engine for two reasons: 1) It is a good comparison with known ambient as a quick test to see if CHT is accurate; I’ve been having some doubts with mine, and really odd (-20C on the gauge) pretty much proved it was broken before. 2) A Colder ambient temperature will mean denser air, so leaning the mix; it’s just a good idea to know what difference the ambient air is making to your mix when comparing jetting under different weather conditions over a period of time, so I record ambient when I'm doing jetting (which does seem to be a never-ending job; I agree). As far as SIP speedo CHT gauges accuracy at cold engine (ambient), I can’t say, but if roughly the same as you’re seeing on a weather report is good enough. For the carb mods I did (on Si26 – with input from others; vespasco, pxguru.....) have a look here: vespa.proboards.com/thread/5222/brief-build-update?page=11vespa.proboards.com/thread/5222/brief-build-update?page=12…there’s more than just the MJ-well, and also some more-recent discussion whether it’s better to start smaller than 2mm and increase if needed. I think I’m 1.8mm, but haven’t got time to re-read it all at the moment. I have a hunch the really big ACs were an unwanted result of drilling too big, and also drilling too big in MJ-well (which also feeds Pilot) also made Pilot and progression 'too hard' to sort. (Hope I'm not teaching you to suck eggs, or giving bum-steers; I'm a bit behind on my reading of this forum at the moment).
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pecker
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Post by pecker on Jun 8, 2017 22:10:13 GMT
Thank you sime and everybody else for your respones, Unfortunately I won't be tuning for a while as this evening I had a bit of a scrape, resulting in breaking my my collar bone. Travelling at about 45mph/50mph ish slightly uphill, with slight left hander, hit something in road went all wobbly, tried to correct (right foot on floor)but could not pull out of it BANG. Pek
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pecker
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Posts: 65
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Post by pecker on Jul 27, 2017 14:09:12 GMT
UPDATE: For those of you interested, Had friend look over my scoot last night and unfortunately it is too bent to repair. So if any of you guys have or no of a donor scoot that you think maybe adequate let me know please.
ps, went in hospital last week and told heeled nicely,now four weeks of physio and then check up. As always All the best pek.
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pecker
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Posts: 65
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Post by pecker on Aug 2, 2017 9:23:33 GMT
Sorry for clogging up this TD page but thought i would just let those who are interested the current state of play. I have found a donor frame and will transfer engine, pipe, speedo, and all the rest of the jazzy things after i have had frame blasted and sprayed,(red).
This mission may take a while, but cant wait to be pulled over on the side of the road checking that good old plug again.
All the best pek
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Post by mijapxman on Aug 2, 2017 10:23:26 GMT
Pecker, Hope your feeling better now and the physio isn't too painful.
Apologies for not posting earlier.😳
Good luck.
Mij☺.
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Post by ironsloth on Aug 2, 2017 18:08:58 GMT
Fortunately a scoot can be rebuilt much more easily, hope you recover soon. How bad is the frame? I'm thinking about building a Vespa trike (been collecting parts now for a little while), and the frame I have is a 1983 Vespa with a Q plate. I don't particularly want to modify such a good frame but if your wrecker can be straightened then... The 83 is a sound and straight frame but I have other plans for it. What do you think?
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pecker
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Posts: 65
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Post by pecker on Aug 3, 2017 10:29:22 GMT
Ironsloth, i was initially hoping to just put new forks. mudguard, shock, horncast, side panel and cables but after giving good look over with friend it was not to be, After looking at bottom of toolbox all was to be revealed: massive creases to frame. And after doing a few measurements compared to what would be normal from seat to headset, it was 50mm longer. Talking to my friend we agreed it was worth keeping the frame for a rainy day project (probably a cutdown) with most defiantly some sort of strengthening bar from just below front of seat to just above tool box. (and a bit of a drishe with a big hammer) And apparently the VIN number is worth its weight in gold. So sorry ironsloth i will be holding on to it. Cheers very much for get well comments , All the best pek p.s. If JIMSCOOT is browsing, do you use a head gasket in your setup ?
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Post by ironsloth on Aug 3, 2017 12:45:53 GMT
Not a problem pek, I would have de-numbered it anyway. A piece of scaffolding pipe would give you the strength needed, hope you get better soon to tackle these projects!!
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pecker
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Posts: 65
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Post by pecker on Oct 7, 2018 18:17:04 GMT
Hello everyone, back again ,.. just thought id resurrect this thread to let you know what has happened/ going on !!!! ( for those interested ).
I am all healed fine,...The same system has been transferred to a new frame,.. i think from my not so good memory the only real change/difference mechanically is the addition of the SIP touren 1700g flywheel ,newfren 22 tooth clutch centre/ reinforced basket,....and a bigger rear tyre added 100/90.
This re-carnation has been completed since may,.. and after a lot of tweaking/playing/testing i am now confident with current set up,.... As you may know the malossi can get pretty dam hot at certain stages,...( especially @fast hills and coming off at normal high speeds) so its quite difficult to balance it with the PM and the Venturi !!!!
Current jetting is AC 160 - mixer BE3 - MJ 145 - IJ 52/120,...Revs/screems out in every gear cleanly with no stutter or hesitation and all now is kept within the safeish temps of 300f's All the best PEK
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pecker
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Posts: 65
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Post by pecker on Oct 7, 2018 18:36:36 GMT
First scratch is out of the way,.. lol PEK
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