laquer help please

[johnnymarr]

Hi All,

I wonder if anyone could possibly help me please?    
Thanks to everyone on this forum (and Sausage dvd of course) i have managed to do various newbie jobs around my 52plate px without posting a question so any help would be much appreciated as cant ride my scooter until this is resolved.

I have used Halfords rattle cans to prime and spray badges/horncast/ crest and wheels and naturally want to laquer them as soon as possible.
Unfortunately their own customer product reviews are very poor overall with the main issues including a leaking valve which results in laquer dripping or spraying onto surfaces and ruining everything.
They also sell a heavy duty cellulose but im reluctant to try this as it will darken the things that i have just sprayed (Rover damask red) which is already dark
I obviously want to avoid risking all my hours and hours prep and spray being completely ruined but dont wish to buy the product after reading all the reviews.
So now i cant finish it and put my wheels on unless i find a laquer that wont badly react and mess things up at the final stage.
does anyone have any suggestion of a tried and tested  / guaranteed type of laquer for the job please or any suggestions please?
Many thanks




 

[doulsy]

Im a spraypainter but i cant advise on spray cans but a rep told me last year about a 2k laquer that comes in a spray can, i would look into that if i were you, i will ask the guys at dingbro on monday.

[henri]

as youve used halfords paint ,the advise usually is to use 1 maker primer/paint/laquer to prevent different paints reacting with each over . an i wouldnt put so much store by halfords store reviews ,a bad workman will always blame his tools sort of deal . laquers 1 of the hardest sprays to get right an as its the "finish" will show mistakes .i hate using it as spraying a bit of a weak spot for me .usually i stick to high-temp stuff on exhausts an petrol resistant on top of fuel tanks an avoid using it elsewhere if possible .
always warm cans by having them in house by radiator 1st. really shake well an ensure spraying areas above 10 degs Celsius an under 25 . an spray onto a test area 1st to make sure nozzles clear an that it wont react with paint already done ,a old car door/bit of fridge/garage door inside/etc .
never used 2 pack laquer from a rattle can ,but think ive seen it on shelf at paint suppliers ,so doulsys tips worth investigating .do know tho 2k is lethal stuff if used wrong ,its based on cyanide , proper mask n good ventilation or outdoor spraying recommended. H

[bryno]

I usually use the acrylic lacquer from halfords, I have used them for years and can make a decent job with them, but if you want super durable you need 2 pack.

I have some 2 pack lacquer ready made up for another project I'm doing next week, you have to activate the harder (or whatever it is) before using it and once you do that have to use it in one go or it will set hard in the can.

Cost me around a tanner a can locally.

Oh, I'd not bother spraying anything until the weather improves, too cold, too much moisture in the air.

[johnnymarr]

Hi, Thanks very much to all the high ranking members who replied so quickly.i have read many of your previous posts.
im rubbish with computers and cant work out how to reply to individuals or reply so that it looks like a conversation on the screen just like all the other questions and answers do.

Doulsy,
thanks for that and i will look online later tonight.Im a newbie and think that i will bottle it during the 2k application and ruin it but will check online though.

Henri,
thanks for that.I bought from the same company for those very reasons; it was due to the consistently poor valve issues and i gave the users the benefit of the doubt as it seemed a common issue and im just scared of ruining all the work ive done so far / just chancing it. I spray it in my shed / homemade spray booth and i have a heater on and the place is , check temp also so thanks for that, i wasnt sure of the temp ranges and think the can says 21 degrees.I take the initial cold away from the cans with the heater but was conscious of perhaps the paint becoming thinner and run due to the shapes of the items ?? 
Just after i spray i  also put the heater in the small booth a few feet away from the item and try to bake this on and leave the booth door open.Im a newbie so dont know if im doing this right.
i thought about a testpiece but was stuck for something to use and have just realised when typing that me and mate are picking up an old washing machine tomorrow.Do i test this by using a couple of coats of primer then coats of enamel before leaving to cure indoors, basically replicating what i had to do to the wheels etc including sanding etc which will take a couple of days or do i simply just spray a bit of enamel on the machine an then two or three coats of laquer and leave it for half an hour or so???.I think Halfords laquer will be ok in terms of compatability, the test piece should prove this and allow me to check the valve for myself  Thanks a bunch Henri.
Byrno.
Thanks for that.Its just because of the frequent comments about the valve and me being scared though im taking your comment as positive as it looks like you have all used the same laquer as their range is small and due to your experience.I spray in a heated shed and choose my day / time so im hoping that magically makes it all ok in those terms, would be good to know how you get on with your 2k next week.Thanks for your help.

Thanks to all and i hope i manage to post this ok.
Looks like ill buy and test it on old washing machine and then take it from there

[henri]

my test piece is a old car door skin i replaced , its usually primed/painted/laquered , so ya old washing machine ,probaly powder coated/enamelled white goods ,skin back to steel , etch/prime/paint an then laquer . always 1st pass on a test piece ,make sure guns needles clean an paints mixed right ,thats the rule . i didnt make it ,just have to live by it .
ya seem to have ya routine/temp/dryin times down pat , have faith brother in ya skills , after all if it goes tits up , rub back n start again ,its a ballache but not the end of western civilation as we know it . just think ya self lucky ,my sprayings done under the flight path of special operations chinook heliflopters , lost 2 full spray jobs now due to low flying egg-beaters . an standing in the road swearin an throwin mud-clots an swearing just dont cut it ,specially when load master leans out the door n gives ya the finger . H

[johnnymarr]

Thanks Henri,
You made me laugh out loud about it not being the end of the world as thats exactly how it feels, Iver never taken this much time and effort just to spray something and i want it to look pretty too.I couldnt even begin to imagine how you must feel after losing two resprays and i would have been raging if some idiot then gave me the viccy.
Thanks for the info about fully prepping the machine, ive got etching primer like you said and i realise im simply using the machine as a model for the actual scooter bits so need to fully prep.
im hoping perhaps the machine will only be coated on the outside and use the inner surfaces as they may be bare metal, find out tomorrow.
Hopefully i will not need to do all of the above though?

As its a possible valve issue  / bad workmanship and not a compatability issue as all the products are halfords i think youre right and ill just buy it and try it for myself ; items hanging up, keeping my distance with light coats and spraying horizontal.I think thats a plan for the moment.I will keep a panel from the machine to test if im not happy with the halfords laquer and maybe want to try another brand.
Thanks again for your help, i live directly under the last part of the flightpath to Glasgow airport with the planes genuinely so close that you can almost read the letters on the doors and will need to keep that in mind.
Thanks