Ahh, look what the cat dragged in; a little something to keep me busy when my engine's done, and after a Summer of enjoying it, I'll take the scoot into the pits to sort this out:
All the parts you need look to be in perfect condition and not so worn either. You dont even need to paint the handlebars!
Will take a few days to fit it all. Will need some new grips, that's probably about it
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
thats looking rather tidy for the money,shame bout the speedo glass n bezel .sounds like the sellers being decent about it tho. looms not cut as its sellable ,but who would buy 2nd hand cables ,so snip snip an 20 mins saved on the dismantle ,done it myself on a strip-down often .doubt its a crashed scoot ,no scratches,bent/broke levers an ripped up grips ,the chrome caps often fall off . things to check/replace , check the leg/link pin bearings for play , thats factory white grease on stem bearings so a clean n re-grease should do an new bearings .an its impossible to see 1 brake pad with rim on so a good gaze at how much meat is on them, if me i'd probably change em as a matter of course ,make sure bolts were free an use copper-grease on re-assembly . doulsy ,yes there are rear disc conversions ,expensive an a lot of work , an tend to be over powerful on the rear ,locking up if used in haste , H
if its got wheels n makes a noise I wanna play with it, skateboards included coz "skate-punks rule",
Doulsy, my title is a bit misleading; it's more of a disc front end swap than a conversion. It's a job I'm planning at the end of Summer 2016, once I've had a good season with my new engine and done my MOT in September (don't want it in bits when it needs an MOT) – till then I'll learn-it-up and make sure I've got everything I need to swap it without nasty surprises. Yes, you can get a rear disc conversion, but I know bugger all about them; no doubt others here do though.
A couple of days doing it maybe, but plenty of time thinking and planning first. I want to have it all thought out before I start it; here's just the first things that spring to mind: There's a few things to think-through with the elec wiring; I've got DC indicators with diodes and some horncast wiring to prevent short-circuit problems, hazard lights, my CHT wiring, I'm thinking about getting the matching rev counter; might look smart side-by-side above the speedo (yes I'm also thinking about SIP Speedo), but I might prefer to use my old black speedo, I want to use the starter button for my DC horn, I'm still working on 4-wire ignition to isolate my DC – lots of bits to think through to replicate or improve the wiring mods I've already done. The control cables, I think will be a case of using the old outers (most of which are new), and running new inners, but I want to be clear what I'm doing, before I take the old forks and headset off, to minimise time in the pits.. I'd already got new grips and levers for last Spring that I never got round to fitting; I was going to put an adjustable clutch lever on before this lot came up - probably still will; though they'll be odd now because I can't have the same for the front brake. I'll probably put my new, not yet fitted, adjustable Carbone shock straight on here, but not checked it for length yet, and I had intended to do that shock soon, when I do new rear hub and new wheels and tyres, so not sure now.. I also want to get a good handle on what all the various steering cups and bearings and bits do, and what bits I need new – and the tool(s); there's some films I keep meaning to watch properly. I also want to be sure this hub and bearings are good for a while, or whether it's best to replace them while it's all out and handy – and to learn it indoors, rather than in the garden. I also have no idea about the hydraulic system; how to rig it up, top it up, bleed it etc. - and the pads.
There'll be no rushing; as usual a slow (and boring?), thorough learning of it all beforehand, with hopefully a straight-forward job and a successful outcome with minimum time in the pits.
BUT, first of all, I want to forget about it for a bit and get my new engine set up for the Spring!!!!
(Not to mention Old Faithful, which still needs attention some time – I seem to have filled my 2016 Scooter tweaks diary already, and I'm not even going to be at home because I'll be out adventurising!!).
H; you've just slipped one in - I've read it quickly, will take it all on board, thanks for that.
They look very tidy...im just jealous mine aint back yet lol ..not a clue what standard brake lines are like on vespa,s but as a matter of course ive always put Hel braided lines on my bikes...so have gone the same route with the scoot
somebodys already put braided/armoured line on that fork set ,so no worries there .sime get some wd40 onto soaking that bleed nipple ,piaggio 1's are a bit cheesy .an if trashed only sip hold replacements that ive found .an px hydraulics are dead easy to bleed ,easiest there is .you want to try a cosa's linked brakes ,damm near impossible ,almost as bad as a landrovers . H
if its got wheels n makes a noise I wanna play with it, skateboards included coz "skate-punks rule",
I've been in the mood to fiddle, but not to be outside, so I did the WD40 to the nipple as you suggested, H; it was pretty stiff, so I loosened it off and gave it a squirt on the threads and up the hole, screwed it out and in a few times, and replaced the dust cap. I found a little help page here:
The line is braided and in a plastic outer over that, which says: 1401 HI DOT 09 PTFE 1/8 SAE That might be worth me noting because I've a nasty feeling it'll need replacing; the handlebar end has a kink in the final tube, which is annoying – it wasn't cheap, so why people want to be so careless packing stuff after they've sold it is a mystery to me. Maybe I can straighten it without splitting it (heat it up a bit?), but more likely – it could have been avoided with a little more care packing it to save wasting time and money – I've just looked and they are bloody expensive, so I hope I can straighten it:
as al says ,but the probs with bending pipes is doin it without kinking/flat-spots . usually a "snake" or spring formers put inside to prevent this .you wont find a former that small . might be worth askin ya local garages/kwikfits , they will have a brake pipe bending tool to make new lines ,an heat to loosen seized exhaust nuts. if ya want to try yaself ,i'd measure internal dia n get a silver steel rod that will fit in it, cherry it up n carefully bend/straighten a mm a time sliding rod in as ya go ,only levering on the rod not the pipe .with the union in a vice an trying to pull pipe thru it as ya go. you only need the union to travel up the flair for it to work . or , my local bike shop makes up anodised lines in 6 colours ,27 a pop ,length not a issue . H
if its got wheels n makes a noise I wanna play with it, skateboards included coz "skate-punks rule",
Indeed it did; I used a pick tool and the shank of a ø2.5mm drill bit up inside it and got it heated-up and just gently straightened it a bit, heated again, etc........ Cleaned the threads up and checked it screwed into the lever. Bloomin' glad it did because I was surprised how much they cost, and the partial refund I got back for the broken speedo would have gone on this. I looked at prices last night, but had a go at fixing it before ordering anything; I also saw made-up ones at about that price – Nothampton Scooters looked good, and they're normally pretty reliable too (£35 inc post):
Talking about the speedo, because I had it kicking around this evening, before I box it all up, I did this little sketch below, which leads on from my wiring diagrams, which are here:
It's only a sketch for now: I'll do it on the CAD sometime when I've got nothing better to do, and I know some of you repair the speedo PCB, so must have sussed this already, but if ever I have problems with warning lights on the speedo, when it's tidied up, this will serve as a PCB wiring diagram, for trouble-shooting or repair. Some PX Pilots might also find it useful:
i use to think its a diode aswell , its marked like one .but have suspicions its also a resistance to regulate an even out the voltage supply to dial .without it the needle would flicker an gauge would read different as the engine revved an volts increased .might be a zener diode ,they only pass current at a pre-set voltage ,say 12volt ,meaning gauge runs on steady 12volt,an excess is dumped back into the system .have never bothered to check/examine an find out properly ,i stay clear of the speedo wiring if possible ,its crap . H
if its got wheels n makes a noise I wanna play with it, skateboards included coz "skate-punks rule",
The PCB is crap, H; and my old one on the scoot now is still working properly, but fragile and corroded as well, and replacements and 2nd hand speedos are rare/expensive, so as I had this newish one handy I thought I'd have a look at how it's wired. It's good to know which circuits might be to blame if something isn't working; a repair, tweak, bodge might sort it. If something isn't doing what it should at MOT time, my man doesn't accept “I didn't bother fixing that because it's crap”. I wouldn't chuck one away with a fault, and I might now be more inclined to pick up 2nd hand ones that might be serviceable. I saved a few quid yesterday with this fuel line anyway - thanks for the advice there; heat and something up it was the way to go -, and I should have a spare speedo coming as a replacement for the broken one, but when I test this one – probably today if it keeps raining, I'll know which bulbs are on which terminals and where the circuits run, so if something's not working, I'll know where to look. Whether that's whichever sort of diode is probably more involved than needed; I doubt I'd ever try to replace it, but it ties in with how the fuel gauge works, which I'm also curious about but probably don't actually need to know (it's the difference between the regulated AC (grey) and the AC from the sender (green/White) - somehow - roughly), and, if you look at the fuel warning and indicator idiot light wiring, it enables those to use the gauge Ground/Earth; the big one in the middle. It wasn't important; just an observation that had me stumped when what I thought was the Ground/Earth from those two bulbs, connected into the Regulated AC. - Lets just call it a bit of idle curiosity on a wet Bank Holiday afternoon, and for me at least, a bit of a better understanding of what it all does - but still with grey areas that maybe I'll fill in if I find myself idle and curious again..........
(........which doesn't look like being often in 2016)
the most common fault ive found on speedos is in the "ring main" common earth ,a break in that or poor connection at connector can give a full-on flashing disco effect .as idiot lights try n earth thru other circuits ,or just no idiot lights at all . most junk the piaggio an try n suss the wiring on a lml 1 instead ,there same size so indian glass n bezel kits can be used to fix that 1 . H
if its got wheels n makes a noise I wanna play with it, skateboards included coz "skate-punks rule",
I've checked that speedo, and all was well except for one blown bulb, which I've changed. For the cost difference I don't think I'll get an Indian lens and 'chrome' bezel, for another fiver I can get a stainless one, or I'm toying with the idea of spraying the grey bit black and having buying black bezel, so there's just two white dials, but that isn't important now, but not Indian chrome anyway. - Still toying with matching CHT and RPM gauges/SIP Speedo, and don't intend to make a decision about that now. I've gone through all the conn blocks and wires in the headset; not much to note – this will get boxed up and forgotten soon, but it's poor weather today, and this is quite a good indoor desk job to sort out while I'm in the mood. Here's stuff that's different to my '83 headset: 1) Clutch/stater safety single wire, which I'll lose or label and leave. 2) Front brake light switch two wires, which I'll lose or label and leave. 3) Starter button two wires, which I'm going to use as the trigger for my DC horn relay. 4) Light switch is 6-wire, not 7-wire; the horn is wired and operated differently (open not shut) on a MY with electric start. Not sure whether it's easier to swap switches or rewire horn, but they are different and not a straight swap. (On a MY the horn button closes a circuit, which connects the live horn to ground). 5) I need to swap my indicator switch because I want to keep the hazard lights. 6) Some wiring colours are different, and I'll make a note of the differences before I pack it up tomorrow, and I'm not sure if they're Spanish differences or later model differences; they won't matter as long as I wire stuff up right – I've photographed the back of the switches and the wiring to headlamp, and I'll take a little time to note the changes before I pack it up. 7) All of the wiring tweaks I've done are the other side of the main conn block in the headset, so I'm optimistic that they won't prove too tricky to keep without too much faffing about. With the control cables, the clutch and gear ones are simple enough just to run a new inner, but I think it's normal to run a throttle inner and outer as one, rather than play with a loose trunion in the headset. It's been on my mind for a while that I've never changed the throttle cable, which might be quite old, and the outer does look a bit knackered at the carb, so I might well sort inner and outer while I'm doing this job – if it lasts that long. I think there's a throttle return spring on this headset and I think it's broken or disconnected, so I'll look into that too, but it looks a bit of a palaver to change, and I'm sure I've read people saying they prefer it without. www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/spring+throttle+tube+for_17536900 I need to inspect brake shoes, and any other wear or known-to-be-dodgy areas of the brake system and see if I need to buy anything else for it. The cover says DOT4, so I imagine that's correct. That leaves checking out all the two sets of bearings; the hub stuff and the steering stuff. That's quite a lot of new info to learn there, and some of it is on the old scooter; I've seen other posts where you've said how to remove bearing cups from the frame, H; so that's stuff that will wait 'till much later, after I've got my engine sorted out, which is what I'm going to concentrate on now. I know most are more intersted in the brakes, bearings etc., but I'm not intending to do that bit for a good while yet. A few pics to tidy this up before leaving it for now - I might just put a list of cable colour changes, but just because here is somewhere handy to find it later:
dont worry about changing bearing cups unless your ones show wear n damage ,its the races/balls that wear more .an indian "stainless" will rust as fast as indian chrome ,an will be loads harder to fit .stainless is lots harder to work with . H
if its got wheels n makes a noise I wanna play with it, skateboards included coz "skate-punks rule",
If it was me, I would just use the handlebar metal. All the switches, gear side and everything else I would take from your old one. Dont want any new problems. The bearing cups in your frame will not be so worn. This is 50,000 mile plus territory. Just put in some new bearings and the white grease (waterproof amoungst other things). If you are not getting a new one, you will need a hole in your mudguard for the brake line. Otherwise this job is not as difficult as you think. Getting all the cables and wires routed in the headset so they dont wear is the hard part.
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
As it happens, due to weather and being a bit stumped with the Pilot jet on my engine build, I spent more time on this yesterday afternoon, and it's surprising how many little tweaks would be needed to use this wiring. I'm still in the process of marking up my schematic with what would need to be done; the main one is that the stator unregulated AC doesn't go through the light switch on this headset, so my yellow and blue on the scooter would have to be connected and a separate regulated AC (my grey) would have to be found for the horn. - OR I'd have to use the old switch, as you say, which I'm already doing for the indicators. I'm going to finish this job I started to see the differences, but I'm inclined to agree that it is far from a straight swap, and I will end up using a lot of the old stuff. It is better to leave the wiring standard (the original standard I'm familiar with for this scooter), rather than some sort of hybrid wiring too. I think all the wiring is thinner too, but the new switches do feel a lot more precise than my worn ones. Whichever way I go, I'll have detailed photos of how both headsets are routed to hopefully get the right wires and cables in the right holes in the right order when I get to that. I wouldn't say I think the job is difficult; it's that I'd rather discover these little niggles, and make decisions, from the comfort of my desk beforehand, than when I'm half-way through transplanting and find myself with either some missing or too many wires, which would certainly have been the case if I'd just taken it as being a straight swap. - What I do in my work is sort all the potential problems out on the drawing board before any confusion gets to site; it's a sensible way to work, and it's how I do my scooter jobs too – suss everything (ask lots of questions) before it in bits! - minimum down-time, minimum on-the-spot bodgery. Regarding the Cups in the frame. My scooter (frame) is on 79,600km, a quarter of that is my use. It will be past 50,000 miles before I get to this job, so a bit of at least an inspection might well be needed at the time of doing the bearings. I wonder if I have just made it a bit more complicated by saying that, but it's foolish of me to ignore if it might need attention. Regarding hole in mudguard. My mudguard is a bit bent, rusty and tatty; it might be good to replace it and I have got my eye out for any decent 2nd-hand one's that pass through various sources – that I can tidy and paint before I start the transplant, rather than have a cutting and paint-job during the swap. I had already done a little sketch of dimensions I need if I do cut min though, and as you raise the subject, now seems like a good time to post the sketch and see if anyone can give me some dimensions; I know they're not critical, but I might as well have an accurate guess than a wild guess; here's that sketch:
a good none rusty px muddy ,best of luck with that , another way to go is "northnorfolk mouldings" on ebay , 3 styles of muddy ,stock /half-cut n full cut-down .£30-odd quid an there good thick quality fiberglass .will need drilling an painting but will never rust ,tho dont survive little bumps aswell as metal 1's . H
if its got wheels n makes a noise I wanna play with it, skateboards included coz "skate-punks rule",
I only have the mudguards on mine. I'll try a measure with a bendy ruler. If you prepare a paper template for your muduard you can just quickly dremel the hole in it and paint the bare metal as a first job on strip down. Then it will be ready for assembly the next day. If you do really want to have a new straight one then what better time to do it. I wouldn't put that iron work back on the mudguard, if you do change it, the scooter is too fast for that now and if it vibrates off then so will you!
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
As it happens I got a nice 2nd hand one last night for £20 + p&p from Bolton; it looked too clean to ignore. I'd already thought that it would be the best chance I'd get to ditch the old one so was already looking, I missed out on an auction by pennies last night, and Henri's 'best of luck with that' comment was like a red rag to a bull. A bit of a paint-job and she'll be perfick. I'm not sure what you mean by the old iron work; maybe you mean that old bumper that was on it when I bought it? That was covering a dent from when I came off it when I first rode out in the lanes, but I got rid of it last year (2014) when I did the rust, and just did a quick Kurust and paint to cover the scars on the bumper too. Hope I caught you before you went out with bendy ruler; here's my new mudguard - the embellisher will go, of course:
Here's the old one - the bumper was hiding the rust; I just gave it a quick tidy, but I knew that edge trim wasn't a good or long-term idea because it's a water trap, but I tarted it up enough to lose the bumper, which I'd never intended to keep:
(*H; maybe I'll knock it out with the embellisher as a job lot!!)
jammy beggar , youve some luck, mostly people ask £30 quid for rusty/scrap 1's . you'll get some cash back on the "shiney-tat" aswell ,tho would come in handy for scaring sheep with. 1st job get some rust killer into the seam an then stone-chip/enamel paint on inside to keep it un-rusty . H
if its got wheels n makes a noise I wanna play with it, skateboards included coz "skate-punks rule",
Just back from my garage. oh well, not a wasted journey, I got some more logs for tonights fire while I was there. Nice mudguard well worth £20. It looks near straight. Was it a quiet day on ebay? I was remembering you had a crash bar on the mudguard, didn't realise that you already did the sensible thing and took it off!
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
Right, you lucky people; here's my conclusions for this nest of wires – it's all clear in my head and I want it recorded here for later. There's six bundles of wires to sort out; refer to the over-marked numbering on the coloured-up schematic at the bottom. I was trying to suss this out without the schematic, until I stumbled across this in my Haynes at lunchtime, and now it all matches up nicely. Here we go: 1) Indicator switch and wiring, including conn. Block: all coming out as one complete bundle; it's more useful as an -unbutchered, complete item, and it saves any confusion with cable colours, although I think I've sussed the differences. My old wiring and hazard light switch will be kept and re-used in new headset. 2) Speedo loom: This is identical for both headsets, and it matters not-a-jot whether I keep either – simples! 3) Light and Horn switch and wiring: I have sussed out the differences here, with the different A/C, the violet going through the conn block, and the different horn wiring and switching, but even though I've sussed that, it is going to be much simpler to hoik the whole thing out and replace it with my old one. There will be either some tweaking of the lamp wiring, or I can replace the lamp with my old one, which already has the wiring mods done to it when I switched over to Halogen, so I'll probably keep the Disc switch with the Disc lamp because they match. 4) Starter button and wiring: this is being 're-purposed' as the trigger circuit for my DC horn – I like it, though the idea has met with tepid reception here. 5) Clutch switch to starter safety interlock: don't need it, but might just leave it labelled and dangling, just in case; it's doing no harm where it is. 6) Front brake light switch: don't need it, but might just leave it labelled and dangling, just in case; it's doing no harm where it is.
I think that will do; I'll have a choice of speedos – each with their own merits, and I've sort of set my heart on a rev counter too (with various options there). I've thought about the control wiring; I can probably reuse the gear cables by loosening them and slipping them in to the plastic jobbies in the headset, but not a big job either way. I think I'll probably put a new clutch inner and the adjustable lever. I think I'll run a new throttle cable at the same time as I slip a rev counter wire through the tunnel.
The mudguard is in the post, the replacement speedo is in the post – this lot is going back in the box – and I'm going out to play on my scooter to sort my jetting!! (Not today – next job).
A diagram – messy, but makes sense to me – and it doesn't matter now because I'll still be as my other schematic, but this is what's in the Disc headset now:
A couple for you, H; as you're resident paint-guru. I've got the stuff left over from when I did the underside of scooter – Hammerite Kurust, and Hammerite Underbody seal with Waxoyl; any reason not to use these on the mudguard? I also want to do a decent, but not show-finish (my scooter is pretty tatty all over, but rust-treated) rattle-can paint job. Do I rub/flat the white down and paint straight on top, or prime on top of the flat paint? I think I'm supposed to get it bare along the seam to get some Kurust in, so I expect I'll be priming it before painting. I'm thinking I'll just get the same as I did for my floor. There's also this recurring question of cellulose paint or not etc., but that info is in my rust treatment thread, so I'll read back over that - hope the paint I used there will be good here; just get more of the same. Also, I'm going to have a look at my brake pads next job. This front end is a 2013 PX disc; is there a favourite brand or supplier for replacement pads? I think I'll change them anyway, as you suggest, while it's all easy to get at and while I'm making sure it's all complete and moving as it should.
Here's a few photos of mudguard with shiny-tat removed; it really is in good nick – there's a couple of tiny rust-bubbles, that need a sort-out, one tiny dent that doesn't bother me at all, but I might as well deal with, where the tax disc holder was has got a bit bent, but in general she's a beauty, and with a bit of care rust-treating and painting, I'll be very happy to slip this on when I do the job. Don't want to make a meal of the painting; properly rust treated and looking respectable:
Done a few bits on this; Kurust and Waxoyl to underside of mudguard, fitted shock, dismantled and checked brake caliper and pads – and did a mock-up with a new wheel and tyre. ...and the replacement speedo arrived too. Paint is in the post to finish mudguard; going to order bearings and stuff on the weekend. I think this might have to happen before the Spring – I'd quite like to get it on.............
sorry sime been away 2 days rotting in a none-wifi travelodge for a family funeral . inside the muddy i'd probs just wire brush any loose paint rust away ,especially along seem .then rust cure ,etch prime an then ya underseal/waxoyl stuff or stonechip/enamel combo i'm experimenting with nowadays . outside on the white i'd just flat back an etch n top coat ,leaving the seam alone if its sealed n not showing any rust coming thru . you mention a tax disc holder ,ive been informed now theres no paper discs its actually still illegal to display a out of date disc .so might aswell junk it . H
if its got wheels n makes a noise I wanna play with it, skateboards included coz "skate-punks rule",
I've also been of it all for a couple of days, H, and this was just a bit of an update really. The rust removal, Kurust and Waxoyl to underside is done and I'm happy with it. I've ordered the same primer and paint as I used to do the Floor in 2014, which came out well; it's a filler primer, not an etch primer, but it and the paint went on old Vespa paint OK before, and I'm painting it well ahead of when I'll need it in case there's any reactions. I've flatted the old paint nicely, and got rid of those couple of slight bubbles shown in the photos above. I don't recall mentioning the tax disc, but in any case the mudguard fixing kit comes with an extra bolt, which ties up with the hole and the bracket on the forks - I don't think my old forks have that bit, but forgot to check. Anyway, it's not something I'm unsure of; my tax disc went ages ago too. I was reading-up last night about filling and bleeding brakes, which seems OK to me; a little tube with non-return valve seems favorite. How much Dot4 do I need? I know it doesn't keep, and I need enough to bleed; 250/300ml enough? I'm wondering if I can swap the forks by laying scoot on its side, rather than trying to lift the front, but that's a while away yet anyway. This little job is going along nicely, I've got to order some stuff, but I'm not sure if this is happening soon, or being shelved till later in the year; sort of depends on progress with engine setting-up, which must take precedence. I'd like to get it done, but don't want more down-time in the Spring - either way it's well under control at present.
easiest non-return valve to use is a jam jar with a inch of fluid at the bottom .so long as end of bleed pipes under surface no air can get back up. always try n use a ring spanner on the nipple as they round real easy . smallest bottle of dot4 will do ya ,bout 250ml ,scoot only uses about 80-100ml in use .so that will give you enuff to flush thru an clear any air .the reservoirs dont hold much so must be topped up every 2-3 strokes of lever ,an when starting a fair bit of air can be "burped" out the top by just moving lever slowly about a 1/4 stroke a few times .after that smooth slow strokes with nipple open til fluids flowing out.the px systems a short simple one so often just opening nipple an pumping lever til no airs going thru pipe (best to use see-thru) rids all the air in one go. am guessing the forks can be swapped on there sides ,an scoot stood upright for bearing adjustment ,tho muddy might get scratched that way . H
if its got wheels n makes a noise I wanna play with it, skateboards included coz "skate-punks rule",
A few bricks under the centre stand feet and/or on the edge of the kerb will give enough height
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR