Unfortunate that it wasn't so easy. I would think if it was the clutch then you would know but if its only just started then it is possible. Try riding slowly in 3rd then opening it up progressivly to WOT in 3rd. If the clutch is slipping it should be noticable.
Clutches are difficult on tuned scooters. On my tourer I have a banded Cosa basket with SIP XXL springs, I think 16, can't remember. Should always be the strongest clutch you think it needs plus a bit more. There is little economy to be found here.
I doubt there is any swarf on the jet way. To be sure you could run it without the MJ and blow it through (again).
You sure it hasn't developed an air leak? Nothing blocking the main air corrector? Might have grooved the basket already, making it stiff to pull. What happens to the flat spot with the choke out a bit?
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
Sorry if this post is a bit long-winded; I'm getting my thoughts and plan-of-action together......
We already said that the clutch would be the weak point, and it was a decision I made with the knowledge it might or might not be up to the job, so no worries there. I remembered that you'd told me I'd break it eventually, and just to satisfy myself, I found the conversation, back in March last year:
Mar 8, 2015 at 3:44am pxguru: “For the clutch I would use the one you have. It will break, they all seem to break in the end its just how long. There is little economy in keeping it in storage for something in the future. It should be fine in your new engine for a long time, if you go easy on the wheelies. The only clutch I have not broken yet, is the one I am running now. Been in for a few thousand now and no issue at all. Wouldn't think that it wasn't an OE standard one to ride it. www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/clutch+basket+mmw+superstro_93245000 This might just be the one that doesn't crack and then causes something more expensive to break”
Mar 8, 2015 at 9:44pm sime66: “To save myself several hundred £$€, I'm buying into the logic of having the weakest link as a part that's easy to hoik out and replace when it gives up, so I'm not now looking at big bucks for a clutch - only time will tell whether or not that will be a wise choice, but it'll do for now. Since the last one blew up on me, I'm very aware of taking care of the clutch, which is a little more tricky with the extra springs, but I'm getting used to it.”
….So now it's a question of ruling out other possibilities before clutch-extraction and inspection (and probably choosing a decent, but still not indestructible, replacement, because it is still better that the clutch goes, than something inside the engine):
1) More running tests to try to confirm clutch – as your post above (and I'll try to film it slipping/spluttering/surging too). 2) More carb inspection stuff to rule out obvious stuff like blockages. 3) More running tests to make sure, as much as is possible, that the problem is not with carb or jetting. 4) Engine checks for air leaks. 5) Electrical tests on stator and CDI (I know you didn't mention it, but it's possible, and easy jobs to rule them out before doing other stuff). (anything else we can think of - I'll sleep on it before doing a check-list anyway, and probably won't make a start until Wednesday at the earliest). Then after those....... Removal and inspection of clutch, and take it from there if that is the problem, and depending on whether it's slipping, spreading or cracking...................
Symptoms: It is less than a week since it started; it was running lovely on Jan 16th when I did that film up the lane; after that I did the (not fast enough, not hot enough) dual carriageway WOT in 4th on Jan 17th, then I did the 48/160 on Jan 19th. On Jan 20th I said it was running very well and I had no issues anywhere in the rev range. I put the 140MJ and the seat on Jan 21st, and I would say this is when I noticed a splutter, which I though was down to a Pilot tweak, which I did, and thought I'd sorted it. I noticed the real problem when testing yesterday, 24th Jan, and I'd say it's worse today, 25th Jan, so I don't think I missed it for long. Wouldn't the revs race if I was giving it lots of throttle and the clutch was slipping? That isn't what's happening; it seems to bog, slow, and pick up with a surge, then repeat as speed increases, or repeat again in the next gear if I get to a speed to change up – that's the best I can explain it at the moment; maybe a film will show it well enough to give a better idea. The reason (for me) that it is so difficult to identify is that it doesn't seem so different from how it ran really rough when I ran it with no MJ to check before; nor does it feel so different from when it was running really badly before, when it turned out to be CDI and stator; nor does it feel so different from a soft-seize, but it isn't in danger of cutting-out; just this surging – initially just on acceleration, but now maybe at speed too, and my temps are still low anyway – I bet you could jump on it and say what's wrong straight away. When I broke the clutch before it was when I was trying to do quick acceleration tests like this, but the clutch disintegrated then, and I lost my kick start. From a starting and stationary revving point of view, it is still behaving perfectly though. Anyway, I won't ramble on; that's the best I can explain it. I'll have a think, do a list of checks using your post and anything else I think of, work through them and report back when I've got more clues..............
Think on this though chaps: If it is the clutch, then it's such a beast that it's torn itself apart before the season has even started, AND it still out-performed Old Faithful, even with a dodgy clutch..... .....there's always a positive spin to be found!
Malossi166 ported matched Serie Pro flowed reed valve crank 57mm Malossi 30mm phbh carb/reed valve manifold kit Opened intake to match Malossi manifold Ngk BR9ES Flywheel milled down to 1.6kg Sip cnc ultrastrong clutch with L reinforced springs and updated circlip readspeed unlimited cdi 3 degrees retard Sip performance left hand 22 tooth primary up gear and larger 100/90/10 rear tyre
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
Tomorrow, I'll do the tests you suggested, and those on my check-list, and various films and WAVs of anything I can get recorded that I think shows it under different conditions – that includes the choke question; I've been busy with other work all day today, so haven't yet done the stuff you suggested yesterday afternoon.
However it did occur to me that I already have a WAV of the 3500rpm splutter from the MD run on Sunday. I would say that the problem was more severe afterwards on the Monday when I did the 142MJ and carb hose tests, than is recorded here on Sunday when I did the MD run, but if you picture this as a short, low rev 1st and 2nd, then opening the throttle right up to WOT in 3rd, which got to about 8,200rpm, you can here the splutter perfectly clearly, at 3,500 - (according to the graph from the WAV). I know you don't rate the dyno graph as a result, but you can see on the graph and hear on the WAV that it pretty much clears after that – I'm not sure if that's still the case; I'd say it has started doing it at speed in 4th now too, but tomorrow will give a better idea of that.
tried to post earlier but lost my connection an part of my sanity ,bloody puters . was tryin to say ,before tearin into ya clutch or other stuff ,re-run ya tests a few times,compare wav's .clutch is fairly new an well fettled so a unseen variable throwing up some rogue figures is a more likely culprit . no scientific principal is proven by 1 experiment ,it has to be repeatable numerous times . i know you work with puters an know them a lot better than me ,but its not always best to trust technology over your own judgement .once clutches slip its not a gradual thing ,they wont grip again til ya let off the revs .an the blip in revs would put a massive spike in ya lines .if you can replicate it its not the end of the world ,as ya remarked earlier ,more of a vindication of you building a "real monster" . H
if its got wheels n makes a noise I wanna play with it, skateboards included coz "skate-punks rule",
We've disregarded that MD test run itself, H; the WAV I posted this afternoon was just to show the whatever-it-is that I noticed on Sunday, and I think is still developing – for now that WAV from Sunday is all I have to show it, but I will do more tomorrow, which I think will show it more clearly and that it has deteriorated. It isn't about the MD run; it's about something that is definitely there now, shown on the WAV – possibly/probably a clutch problem caused by the Beast, but still needing attention once I've pinned it down, whatever it is. I'll do the test runs first thing to get them posted on here as early as I can, but then, if there's some morning left and it isn't too wet, I'm out in the garden to do loads of inspections and tests; air (leaks – carb, barrel, exhaust), oil(level/smell), elec(Stator, CDI,HT), plug; I've done a big check-list to work through. I may take the carb off and blow it through with all the jets out, I may take the head off and check down the barrel, I may end up checking my woodruffs and timing; I'll get back up the lane if it isn't hosing down and redo my Pilot, slow running and stuff again – whatever I need to do to find the cause. Maybe by then some of your experienced ears might have more clues from my morning post to investigate or narrow it down more. When I listened to that WAV in isolation while I was cutting the file earlier, I'd expect it to rev-up if it was the clutch slipping, and not be OK at higher revs after it's got past that point, but as I say, I think tomorrow's recordings will show it's got worse since that recording on Sunday. But if it isn't clutch and is jetting, I'd expect to see some clues in starting, low running, idle-rev-idle, which are all good; it might have just been jetting at that rev-range (I was thinking at a point when Pilot is struggling before MJ has started - overlap), but I think it's worse now anyway. The clutch in there now is/was a good'un; newish from Old Faithful and in very good condition when I took it out after using it through 2015, but possibly not up to the job in this engine. It's got 16 rivets and 16 standard springs, the reinforced circlip; it's only a standard basket though - one of these: www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/clutch+basket+sip+standard+_93401000 How it's coped with the recent speed/acceleration tests on this engine will only be known if I take it out and have a look, which I will do if we haven't come up with a better plan, or found a solution, before then. This whole exercise is already a great success – the learning and the build -, and this is a feckin' good engine as well; I'm really pleased with it. Even the worse scenarios now are only little hurdles, and it's still only January – no worries; I'll sort it soon enough (with all your help)..........
Well the good news is I managed to play the wav (not really so difficult). The other good news is that there is nothing wrong with your engine at all
The MJ is too big! The misfire sounds like its running a slightly rich low middle and top rpm. The top end being too rich is just the MJ, nothing else. You tried a 140 and that was the same or slightly better? So next is 138. When the MJ is too rich it lifts the whole curve, so the bottom end might slip back in the zone with a smaller MJ. Give it a try.
Sounding good and strong otherwise. I can see why you would be impressed with it.
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
I'm glad you think that one is OK, but I'm still going to do a few as soon as it's light because I think it's worse now than it was on Sunday. There's a few burbles right up around 7,500 rpm too (I can play it back with an audio rev counter by my speaker, which actually works well above 6,000, so shows where they are); I think those in particular are more noticeable now; maybe we'd expect that towards the top of its range anyway, or just too rich as you suggest. (Going leaner would get my temps up too; they're still low, although the plug didn't show much colour). If that proves to be the case, I'll change down on the MJ when I come back to post some WAVS in an hour or so (I'll do them so they're easier to play), and go back to see if it improves it. I won't spend too long on the pre-downjet WAVs because you sound pretty confident, which is encouraging - thanks for that. Sound like I might have cut my garden check jobs down too, which is good; finding the time is a bit of a squeeze. I won't spend long posting now, but back in a couple of hours............
Uh-oh (again); I've upset the neighbours in the lane. (I won't bore anyone with the full story, nor do I want opinions along the lines of “Fek 'em” either, so please just accept that I'm using my better judgement of the situation and giving it a rest there for now).
Anyway I did a few recordings – I'm happier to think of it as just my jetting being off now for some reason; maybe the seat has restricted the air a bit and made it a tad richer all through? There must be a specific reason because it was really good and close, and there was nothing like this at all when I did that film two Sundays ago. This little lot was with 142MJ and 48/160 (I noticed little difference with 140MJ, which was Sundays M.D., posted as WAV yesterday); I think these show a fair bit of spluttering all-over now, maybe more with the 142, so a proper bit of redoing is needed, starting with this 138MJ; I've gone further away from spot-on somewhere recently for some reason; ambient temp too? I'm busy all day Friday, not sure where I'm going to do setting up and testing now anyway, so other than some checks in the garden if I still need them, that is my lot until Saturday morning, when I have to use it anyway and will get a better idea of how it runs on the road, and I'll find somewhere quiet to play on the Weekend. I've put the 138MJ in whilst waiting for these files to upload, so I'm now 138MJ, 48/160 next time out. Here's the WAVs, with 142MJ, in user-friendly form for easy-listening:
The burbles at very high rpm are the biggest indicator that the main jet is probably 2 jet sizes too big. If at very high rpm it burbles and splutters faintly (like yours does), then the MJ is at least one jet size too big and maybe 2 jet sizes. ie. 140 slightly splutters at WOT, so you surely need a 138 and then possibly a 135.
Edit; was writing as you were up loading. Definately just rich. Maybe its the dramatic ambient increase to 12 degrees? i think you will end up on the 135 MJ. if you think its fast now, wait until it has the right jet in it! its not revving out properly and therefore won't be pulling so hard.
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
Thanks; that's cheered me up no end. I'll have a play with it, quietly when I'm able, and post something nice soon. I was also thinking it will be a bit lively with the down-jetting (better temps too); we'll just have to wait and see!
^^If that proves to be the case, this warmer re-jetting can maybe be my Spring-Tweak a bit early, and I can then just do the range of plug chops we need to confirm it across the revs, and call it a day - do the Atomiser later if needed.
One more thing, once the MJ is sorted it will run quite a bit hotter, somewhere near the numbers we talked about before. Once it is running hotter it will make the progression weak. It will need a richer pilot jet after the MJ is nearer optimal.
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
I'm also expecting the engine temps to show better figures when the MJ is closer. I need to get it back running right to confirm this MJ was the problem last week, but it's ironic that I'm about to use the scooter anyway this morning, and the ambient temp has dropped right off again (4ºC), which shows why it's a bit of a pig to sort the jetting with temps fluctuating so much at the moment. I will definitely check the Pilot when the MJ is right (closer to right, anyway); I'll check low, mid and WOT when I've finished fiddling and we're agreed it's close. One quick question that occurred overnight; is a tuned engine more sensitive to ambient running conditions then? I don't really recall having such a variation in performance, Summer to Winter, on Old Faithful – or maybe I just put up with it being a bit rich and safe.
not just ambient ,higher the tune the more sensitive to humidity/altitude/fuel quality . sometimes which way the winds blowing if there being grumpy .its usual for race/sprint scoots to have jetting tweaked on morning of the event to allow for these variables/conditions . stock tunes have wide parameters so they will work in variable conditions ,just not at there peak/best performance in any 1 set. an also riders of tuned scoots ,particulary self tuned are often more "in-tune" with there engines an notice any variations/drop-offs in performance . you didnt notice variations on old-faithful as there wasnt any ,it never peaked,just ran average-ably day in day out .like a px was built to do. an "neighbours" eh , were do they get off , play nice sime ya dont need a over-the-fence war distracting ya . H
if its got wheels n makes a noise I wanna play with it, skateboards included coz "skate-punks rule",
Thanks, H. I was pondering it whilst riding; a narrower 'OK' band for variables, and me being a bit more aware of performance, temps and smooth running too; it all makes sense. I had written something below, but you'd posted while I was writing, so just to acknowledge I read yours and tweaked mine**.
Right then – Main thing: Cause Identified and Sorted. No proper record of temps, just out and about doing chores - it was 4ºC outside when I set off this morning, and with the 138MJ it is so much better; a combination of lower jetting and lower ambient temps. Got to 113ºC max with moderately nippy running round mainly country lanes, good acceleration and speeds, a little bit of uneven running at low speed/revs in 2nd ('bimbling' in slow-moving traffic), so Pilot and/or Mix/Idle needs a tweak as expected. So that's all the blip last week was. I was still surprised how quickly and noticeably it loses its dialled-in-ness though. Thinking about it; Maybe just because it's tuned,** Maybe because I'm more aware,** Maybe because it's a 26mm carb, Maybe because it's a drilled carb. Maybe because it was just OK, not spot-on anyway; - I was still working down on the MJ. Anyway, now I know, I'll know what to look for if similar happens again. Still a lot of faff getting this spot-on with the weather fluctuating, then it being out the next day, but probably getting nearer each time, and better able to identify what the engine needs as I get used to how it responds to changes.............. (Got the 135 up my sleeve for later, maybe, when it warms up permanently....)
I've been meaning to say, for what it's worth, fuel economy for 500 miles running in: = 63.5M/G. = 23km/L is a better measure for me, which is well within the 100km between fill-ups I've been using for the last few years, since my gauge died.
I dont have time for a long answer but yours is not "so tuned". Once dialed in it will be nearly like a standard engine in terms of Summer and Winter. In Winter it should be running on the lean side of Optimal and in Summer (thrashing season) it should be on the rich side. All the caution hasn't got you there yet
How is the economy compared to the old engine?
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
Ah-Ha! - I had economy figures for long journeys, but it occurred to me I'd run-in Old Faithful in Spring 2013, which might make an interesting comparison. I didn't have a fuel economy figure worked out in my records, but I just calculated my mpg for running in Old-Faithful (point to note; that was all slow running-in, not performance testing/jetting until after); I got: 500miles, 7.75Gallons = 64.7mpg then. (I did a few long, slow runs during that previous running-in, this time has been shorter and faster runs, and testing/jetting during running-in). This sort of running isn't really typical though; proper comparison will only be any good after a full year with all sorts of running, but the economy here is better than I'd have expected from Old Faithful for local running over Winter*. Round town I'd be more like mid-50s, and only on or better than 65M/G on long runs; some recent examples: Isle of Wight (650miles) = 57.7mpg Builth Wells (750miles) = 62.3mpg Weston-super-Mare (400miles) = 67.2mpg Land End (250miles) = 75mpg Last year, low use short runs over Winter = 51.3mpg* - There's always a bit of inaccuracy depending on how much is in the tank at start or end of a journey; they even-out over the year, but those are all from my records over the last few years. The Beast isn't less economical, only time will tell if and how much better it might be.
Looks like it will be better all round? :-) I think the economy comes from not needing to have it wide open to cruise. How long before payback of the rebuild ;-)
Once you confirm the wot plug colour is ok on the 138, Then we can either consider the 135 or drilling the atomiser!
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
"How long before payback of the rebuild" My driving licence is good 'til 2036; that might do it. I've got a bit of rust-work at the back, some prevention/protection on panels and above engine (I'll do the engine mounts and rust together sometime if nothing crops up before then), sort the front brakes/forks etc., but then I've got myself exactly what I want. It probably doesn't have much re-sale value, not what it's worth to me anyway, but I don't want to sell it; just enjoy it for a bit.
After the recent phantom-clutch incident, I'm less inclined to test it to destruction, so WOT-chopping can wait a while. I have a decent ride to do on Saturday, when I'll get a better idea of temps across the range anyway; if temps are good I'll do a WOT 4th for speed and temp; (we want 70mph+, and 150ºC). I might, depending on ambient temp on Sunday, slip the 135 in to do a quick MD, just to wipe the previous one from the records, and post something respectable - shape of curve for atomiser too, maybe. End of February, I need it for longer journeys over the Moors; planned tweaking (and especially breaking) time is coming to an end then - One Month Deadline.
No scoot-work today; have a good weekend chaps..........
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
This is not the clean Dyno we're waiting to see, it's just for interest; read below for explanation:
This is a Dyno curve from part of the WAV I posted on Thursday, titled “Fast 3rd M.D. Type run, but shorter road”; I'm not bothered about the max PS, Nm or revs on this because that road isn't long enough to rev-out in 3rd, and has a muddy, leafy stopping and 'U' turn at the end (not to mention the neighbours with pitchforks now), so I have to be careful and slow down in plenty of time to stop and turn, but it shows a much nicer curve even though that WAV was done to show that it was still running-rough (still with 142 a few days ago). Those two curves below, and getting 11.4PS and 13.9Nm in the lane, where I can't hold WOT in 3rd for long enough, has got to be promising for some good numbers to come – plenty more PS where that came from – I've throttled-back at 6,150rpm, but I was already at 11.4PS and pulling:
Note: New method of displaying the WAV audio with the Dyno curve to enhance your viewing/listening pleasure; see the play icon below the image to play the WAV of the Dyno you're looking at.
It's warmer again today, and the improvement with the 138 is partially gone again on my ride this morning, so I'm going to try the 135 and have a play with the Pilot too before any tests (this morning it's mainly rough lower down the revs). I'm not sure that the wet and windy weather is going to be good enough to do M.D.s tomorrow; if it is, I will do some, but I liked that curve above, done last night with just the WAVs I already had from Wednesday, so thought I'd post this little teaser in case weather prevents anything better this weekend...........
Re clutch: I'm very aware it's the weak point, as a rule I don't ride like I am testing at the moment, so hope it's good for a while under normal riding; I can visual check, maybe before an Easter run if it's still feeling OK then. If it lasts a bit and there's no other costly surprises, perhaps it can have an upgrade before I damage it, and it can go back in Old Faithful, depending on what I decide to do with that engine – I don't want to let that engine fester, but I'm in no mood to tackle another one just yet.
I hear it's grim up North chaps; hope you're all coping with the storms.
its always "grim tup north" ,thats the way we like it ,gives em a excuse to stop in the pub drinkin bitter n mild n smokin tabs rather than walking there wippets . an neighbours with pitchforks is ok ,its when the lit torches come out youve got to pack n run an not look back . H
if its got wheels n makes a noise I wanna play with it, skateboards included coz "skate-punks rule",
I can't fathom why, because it was definitely better previously after downjetting the MJ on Thursday, but the splutter is back. As a result the Dyno and 0-60 are still disappointing, but serve to show why, so I suppose it's worth getting the data together and posting. It's this early MJ-range issue, at about 3500-4000rpm, after which it picks up again. I should note that the improvement on Thursday was with the 138, not the 135 I used this morning, the only other difference is the weather; the temp is higher than Thursday, but it was wet and windy today, not clear and still like on Thursday. Some data below, but again it's really only serving to show a problem, not as any sort of finished job:
MicroDyno: 12.13PS @7401rpm, 12.52Nm @5459rpm, Max @8425rpm (= 95kph in 3rd; SIP GPS = 90kph in 3rd) Max PS is in the right place, and peak rpm is good, but PS is still low, and that 3,500-4,000 dip is still there.
0-60 Performance App: ¼ Mile = 21.48sec to 63.2mph = 102kph 0-60 = 17.5sec Max recorded = 66.6mph = 107kph – (On slip road, not on dual carriageway – had to slow down to join safely) - That's not a 5km WOT in 4th; I'll do that when stutter is sorted and it isn't raining. The lower-speed accelerations are on the screenshot below, but those are badly affected by the 3,500-4000rpm rumble.
Max temp for all runs was 106ºC; maybe I can go smaller on the MJ?
If its still spluttering at WOT the MJ is still too big. The temperature is showing the same, CHT should be much higher. I had my Polossi round the bypass the other day and it was not far from near normal Summer temps, even in the cold weather. Whats your WOT plug colour? Before you go to a smaller MJ. I was hoping for more, and there still maybe but if that 12bhp is correct then thats another check that a 135 MJ is still too big.
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR
I'm not going to have much time this week, but will continue to tweak and test. I'm more interested in getting this low-end splutter sorted than the 12PS, but no doubt fixing one will help the other. Temps and plug too; it'll all fall into place.
I think once the high rpm splutter is gone and the WOT temp is up over 140C, then the 3,500 splutter would have gone too. If not there are other things that can be done. Just focus on the MJ until that splutter has gone. Each time you take it out put in a smaller MJ. I guess the 132 is in already? I have a local half mile dual carridgeway with a roundabout at each end, perfect for jetting in.
PX200E with 221 Malossi, max power at 8300rpm, VHSH30CS, 175 main jet PX200E Tourer, tuned original barrel, SIP road II, SI26/26 135 main jet, vortex 1050cc Triumph ST 600cc Honda CBR