|
|
Post by doulsy on May 2, 2015 10:27:25 GMT
Was out for the first time the other night and did about 5 mile, then the engine wouldnt stop reving, had to stall the bike as the ignition never killed it, started back up and everything was fine, ignition working fine ect, could it just be a case of the throttle sticking or something more serious? Took it out for 3 mile last night and everthing seemed ok.
|
|
|
|
Post by vespasco on May 2, 2015 10:49:00 GMT
Its worth checking to see if you have a leak at the head???
|
|
|
|
Post by doulsy on May 2, 2015 11:19:33 GMT
Its worth checking to see if you have a leak at the head??? How do you check that? |
|
|
|
Post by henri on May 2, 2015 14:00:31 GMT
look for oil staining between the head n barrel, or when scoots running spray brake cleaner/easy start around the area ,if scoot starts running faster its sucking it in , its also worth checking the cables not unravelling an catching somewhere , H
|
|
|
|
Post by rab on May 2, 2015 14:05:07 GMT
Plastic head cover will be plastered with unburnt damp dirty fuel oil mix
|
|
|
|
Post by doulsy on May 2, 2015 14:47:18 GMT
Thanks guys, i checked the cable today and put some lube on the throttle thingy, if its leaking at the head? Is that just a case of a new gasket? Will take cover of and check it when i get a chance.
|
|
|
|
Post by henri on May 2, 2015 15:46:58 GMT
i never use the gaskets ,there prone to leak,but if youve used one a re-torque of head might stop any leaks , a proper job is taking head of an lapping it in flat on 2000grit wet n dry on a flat plate/sheet of glass , then a final lap with grinding paste , on re-assembly use permatex ultra-copper gasket gloop , or theres a loctite 1 ,610 i think , recent article in scootering an a few pro's where reckoning on "wellseal" but ive only ever used that on water cooled bikes or my classic cars ,
if its a copper gasket you can re-anneal them if youve not got a spare , get it red-hot on ya cooker flame an dump it still red hot into a sink of cold water , takes the work-hardness out of it an softens enuff to crush down on torqueing ,
had my throttle stick on me on way to mot last week , was cable unravelling up at headset end , ended up going full revs in 2nd holding scoot back with brakes stuck behind a loaded hearse n mourners cars doin 15mph uphill to the boneyard/bonfire place . a tad embarrasing , H
|
|
|
|
Post by rab on May 3, 2015 11:26:49 GMT
I just took mine off cleaned it all up then bolted it back together with same metal gasket and its not faild me in 2 month of almost daily riding .mine was due to one nut being a tad slack
|
|
|
|
Post by doulsy on May 5, 2015 18:36:08 GMT
Is there a reason the ignition didnt kill it when it happened first time? Not sure about this, there must be a reason for it as the ignition kills the the engine now, just noticed bottom of head looks a bit oily but there was nothing in the cover, tried spraying some easy start at it but the revs never changed, also put some wd40 in the carb box and it never disapeared. |
|
|
|
Post by vespasco on May 5, 2015 18:36:49 GMT
Blimey H..! I bet they loved you! Hahaha! "Damn hooligans on their mopeds. No respect etc"!!
It think you have a stock p range motor? If so there is no head gasket.
To be sure the head is sealing ok, take off the head, lap it (using a sheet of glass and a sheet of wet n dry, levelling the gasket face of the head. (Move the head in a figure of 8 motion, or even just a circle, not backwards and forwards).
I tend to marker pen the gasket face to check its all levelled off nicely.
Clean it up, torque correctly and evenly.
Take it for a spin.
Let it cool down
Re-torque head
Happy days!?
Air leak in the head = lean running = hot = hot enough for the fuel to keep igniting even with no spark. Its unlikely to be carbon build up if its a recently built motor but check for any potential hot spots/carbon deposits in the head/cylinder
A snagging throttle cable in that situation would not let the slide close which would keep feeding fuel to the hot chamber, which then gets hotter/stays hot enough to keep the cycle going until fuel is cut off.
If it happens again you should turn off the fuel/slacken off your idle screw to fully closed the carb/stall it if you dare/close your mouth :0 Basically, stop anymore fuel getting to the cylinder.
|
|
|
|
Post by doulsy on May 5, 2015 19:57:41 GMT
Blimey H..! I bet they loved you! Hahaha! "Damn hooligans on their mopeds. No respect etc"!! It think you have a stock p range motor? If so there is no head gasket. To be sure the head is sealing ok, take off the head, lap it (using a sheet of glass and a sheet of wet n dry, levelling the gasket face of the head. (Move the head in a figure of 8 motion, or even just a circle, not backwards and forwards). I tend to marker pen the gasket face to check its all levelled off nicely. Clean it up, torque correctly and evenly. Take it for a spin. Let it cool down Re-torque head Happy days!? Air leak in the head = lean running = hot = hot enough for the fuel to keep igniting even with no spark. Its unlikely to be carbon build up if its a recently built motor but check for any potential hot spots/carbon deposits in the head/cylinder A snagging throttle cable in that situation would not let the slide close which would keep feeding fuel to the hot chamber, which then gets hotter/stays hot enough to keep the cycle going until fuel is cut off. If it happens again you should turn off the fuel/slacken off your idle screw to fully closed the carb/stall it if you dare/close your mouth :0 Basically, stop anymore fuel getting to the cylinder. thanks vespasco, its not a p range engine, the p range engine will be getting rebuilt during the winter, this is a 125 lml engine that i bought so i could use the scooter for the summer, bought it from ebay for £260 and was told it was fine, just took my cbt and insured and taxed the scooter last week so this happened on my first ever ride on it after 5 miles, did another 3 mile the following night and it seemed fine. |
|
|
|
Post by doulsy on May 6, 2015 18:59:05 GMT
is it a reedvalve LML engine or the old rotary?,,,not sure when they switched over to reed don't know, how can you tell? it has electric start if that makes a difference, guy told me it was a 2003 but i wouldn't take anything he said as gospel, also has autolube. |
|
|
|
Post by shipscat on May 6, 2015 20:25:15 GMT
air-leak it happened to me on a small frame f**in scary , kill switch no  plug lead off still screaming wft !!!!!! had to sit at the side of the road for a fag after the air leak caused it to get so hot fuel/air was igniting by its self its called dieseling |
|
|
|
Post by doulsy on May 6, 2015 23:47:15 GMT
carb and carb box is defo different from my p engine
|
|
|
|
Post by henri on May 7, 2015 8:43:18 GMT
is your p engine pre-mix as carb boxes are smaller , a 2003 lml shouldnt be reed but rotary ,same as a px 1 , H
|
|
|
|
Post by doulsy on May 7, 2015 13:04:44 GMT
yes, p range is premix, will try to get a look at the lml engine this evening,
|
|
|
|
Post by doulsy on May 7, 2015 20:25:12 GMT
can you tell from this picture?  |
|
|
|
Post by henri on May 8, 2015 7:39:21 GMT
not really but not seeing any diff to rotary an stickin on non-reed , H
|
|
plug lead off still screaming wft !!!!!! had to sit at the side of the road for a fag after