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Post by kidda on Feb 14, 2015 17:49:45 GMT
Here's one for you folks,what are the symptoms of a seizure? Been having issues doing about 4 miles then the engine dies, leave it a minute then kicks in. Checked connections and cleaned breather to tank and took it out again today, same again did about 4 miles then started die I could tell by loosing power,dipped the clutch put it in 3rd then let it go then ran ok then it started die again after a few yards,stopped left it 4a few mins it did'nt want kick in but was turning over,managed get it start then off I went trying get home then after say about a mile it started again so I started dip the clutch when I could feel it loosing power and limped home,feels like I've lost alot of power and it looks like the gasket to the oil pump is shot (2 stroke everywhere) any ideas folks??cheers
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Post by kidda on Feb 14, 2015 17:53:26 GMT
Still got a feeling the fuel tap is knackerd so going replace that,lost a hell of alot of power and was unresponsive it just wanna running right,would the engine still run if it seized?
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Post by henri on Feb 14, 2015 20:40:41 GMT
yes , a soft-seized engine will run again , but if ya didnt come to a screeching halt leaving a tyre mark on tarmac it wasnt a seize ,if it was just losing power n you quickly pulled clutch it might of been nipping up, only way to tell is pulling the head n inspecting the bore ,H
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Post by kidda on Feb 14, 2015 22:56:51 GMT
It's a right strange one this, think I'm going get a new cdi on it and fuel tap then strip the head have a look make sure everything's ok,replace oil pump gasket then start again see wot happens
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Post by rab on Feb 15, 2015 15:33:45 GMT
I'd start pre mixing and stop using the autolube if you haven't already .you will find a very split opinion over autolube to use or not but my theory is if you pre mix you know it's always getting 2 and its always right so can never be at fault
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Post by vespasco on Feb 15, 2015 19:13:28 GMT
Im not sure you're going to need all those new bits just yet.. I think weve now discovered you are very likely heat seizing. You said you have 2 stroke oil everywhere. Theres your problem. Thats why youre heat seizing after a few miles, when the engine is actualy warm...or in your case, too hot! Id do as rab suggests for now, a pre mix, until you get your oil leak fixed.
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Post by kidda on Feb 15, 2015 19:38:09 GMT
It had seized,stripped it down today,the bore aint too bad but the piston is rough going see if I can clean it up at work tonight,at least one thing the rings are still intact,going see if I can salvage the kit,looks like the gasket had split,solved the original leak from the pipe which must of made the gasket worse
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Post by kidda on Feb 15, 2015 19:39:39 GMT
Going clean it all up and put it all back together and see how it runs? ?
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Post by vespasco on Feb 15, 2015 19:55:21 GMT
Cool! You can probably clean everything and reuse it, except your gasket. Check your oil feed all the way through. Take it easy when it gets going again, especially when its warmed up. Best of luck
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Post by kidda on Feb 15, 2015 20:04:22 GMT
Fingers crossed I can salvage the kit it's only done about 25 mile onit but will start Pre mixing,I'll keep u posted on the outcome
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Post by rab on Feb 16, 2015 20:15:09 GMT
just remember if you start using the autolube again its not mixing enough 2 stroke for your kit it will only ever mix enough for a standerd head. a few minor heat scores on the piston should be fine just sand the score marks down as long as the rings are ok it should be fine.buy a mixing jug to get your 2% then add a touch more 2 i normaly go up another marker when i fill up because of the uprated head. i could have re used my mollosi as it was very mild marks but i was looking for an excuse to get shut of it before it started going wrong simply because they sound like there nakerd at low revs and it annoyed the hell out of me every day 5 days a week untill i could open up the throttle and thrash the hell out of it. dont get me wrong its a poo hot piece of kit when you have it set up right it will go to 60 very quick and you have to respect it or it will catch you out and try throw you off hehehehe
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Post by kru251 on Feb 16, 2015 20:55:36 GMT
I would be looking carefully at your fuel tap/flow ability. I sold a Lammie Li 150 recently that I rebuilt and is as you probably know pre-mix. This had seized after a short fast run. Hole in piston resulted. Long story short, the fuel tap flowed enough fuel to keep the fuel bowl topped up & enough to run the engine at normal speed but as it was opened up the tap's ability to supply fuel to the float bowl couldn't keep up with usage so lean run etc etc. Cause? Partially blocked fuel tap with small particles of rust.
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Post by sbwnik on Feb 16, 2015 22:53:54 GMT
just remember if you start using the autolube again its not mixing enough 2 stroke for your kit it will only ever mix enough for a standerd head. a few minor heat scores on the piston should be fine just sand the score marks down as long as the rings are ok it should be fine.buy a mixing jug to get your 2% then add a touch more 2 i normaly go up another marker when i fill up because of the uprated head. I'm sorry, but this is terrible advice. The kit runs at 2%. That's a percentage, it's fixed to fuel consumption, this goes up with capacity increase.
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Post by rab on Feb 17, 2015 8:52:34 GMT
From personal experience I found the autolube was not feeding enough 2 to my mallosi so had to start adding 2 to my fuel as in a thread I started last year on this asking about it the replys from that thread led me to the very same advice I just gave I believe you took part in that thread aswell nik . The does it feed enough 2 for a kit was talked about and I'm not 100 per cent sure but wasent it you that said the auto lube either works or it doesn't and it only ever feeds at 2% ? So a kit would need a bit of 2 mixing in the fuel for an upgraded head
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Post by henri on Feb 17, 2015 18:32:36 GMT
i stick at 2% myself ,but loads do run kits at 3% , an if its upjetted to take account of extra oil leaning the mix by takin place of fuel it doesnt do any harm , cept to the enviroment , but i couldnt give a tuppeny toss for the green cack, H
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Post by vespasco on Feb 17, 2015 19:44:08 GMT
I use nothing but 2%. More than that and my plugs were black and horrible. Some people run auto lube with kits, some dont - incase it ever fails. Pre mixing is a 'fail safe' way to ensure you get the right amount of oil in there. Unless of course you were to stupidly disguse a bottle of Stop Leak as 2 Stroke oil, and mix it in with a full tank. Ahem!
My old SS used 5% !! That was a killer on the wallet!
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Post by kidda on Feb 17, 2015 23:04:44 GMT
I've cleaned the piston and done a bit of work on the cylinder,if I get time this week I'm going put it back together and fingers crossed it runs ok, lessons very much learnt from this and knowledge gained,thanks for all the advice and tips folks and she will be back on the road soon,nice 1
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Post by pxguru on Feb 18, 2015 5:06:32 GMT
IMHO nothing any of us do on here revs high enough to need any more oil than 2%. How you get it in just comes down to personal choice, do you trust autolube or do you prefer taking ages in the petrol station?
If you post a picture of the scores in the barrel and condition of the piston we can advise. You need to really look very closely at the piston for hair line cracks as these may not show in a photo. Depending on how bad it seized, sorry to say, it might need new piston rings already!
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Post by henri on Feb 18, 2015 10:16:23 GMT
try a ld vespaco ,16-1 , half a bottle of oil practically to a full tank , an as pxguru hints , a barrel can be honed out unless really scored n pistons polished back but for safety rings should be replaced , there cast iron an brittle an prone to micro cracks you wont see unless using a microscope , an will maybe break nxt time there used in anger . H
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Post by kidda on Feb 22, 2015 16:03:11 GMT
Question ere folks, put me engine back together today and managed after a considerable amount of time get it running and it was a bag of sh*te, felt like if the choke was stuck on really lumpy wouldn't tick over or anything really rough,checked the fuel line it was just a trickle I would of thought it would come out quite fast? Just a question about the piston,have I put it back on in the right direction? On the malossi kit 1 side is smooth the other has 2 ports should these match up with the exhaust port on the barrel? No arrows on the top of piston?cheers
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Post by henri on Feb 22, 2015 16:16:44 GMT
the piston cut outs in the skirt def dont point to exhaust side , if you can look up exhaust stud n turn engine an see cut outs the pistons in wrong way round , an if thats so i for 1 are totally amazed you could get it started at all, you must have a kicking leg like a mule or live on top off a big hill to bump it down , def colour me in amazed , its a easy/common mistake to make an ive seen it done a few times,even by pro mech-heads , H
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Post by kidda on Feb 22, 2015 16:46:29 GMT
I thought as much I don't believe it!!!yeh got it start with a gud bump start was rough as fuk I can tell you,going strip it again and change everything this time and go to full Pre mix,trial and error job on this one but we will be up and running again, what do you think regarding the fuel?not happy with the flow at all, would of thought it would come out quite rapid??nice 1 H
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Post by henri on Feb 22, 2015 17:12:26 GMT
had to go lie down for a bit there , am still amazed ya got it started ,never heard of anybody managing that before , pure legend you are mate , how much fuel was in the tank ,an how long since taps been out n filter cleaned , you can do it with tap still in with a toothbrush tied to a stick an flush out any dirt with fresh fuel, an get a pound store measuring jug n time the flow rate, if ya scoot does 60mph an 60 mpg its got to pass a gallon in a hour ,thats a litre every 12 minutes ,for instance , thats just a example an i used those numbers to try n simplify the maths ,ok , but it gives you a idea of whats needed , an rule of thumb is taps got to be capable of delivering twice the amount ya using ,to be sure its not fuel starvation/leaning up the carb , if youve any doubts about ya tap switch it out to a bgm 1 ,same money but loads better quality than stock , H
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Post by kidda on Feb 22, 2015 17:40:50 GMT
Nice 1 H,I'll av a tinker with it next week and keep you posted on the outcome,cheers m8
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Post by kidda on Feb 23, 2015 10:07:26 GMT
Got it running again,just need set everything up again and bolt everything down,thank god it runs and now set it up right, thanks folks for all the excellent advice especially H ur a star nice 1 bruv
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Post by vespasco on Feb 23, 2015 15:52:19 GMT
Good to see! Now get it (gently) warmed up, adjust your idle, check plug, away you go!
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Post by kidda on Feb 23, 2015 18:10:51 GMT
Nice 1 bruv 4 all the advice,cheers m8
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Post by henri on Feb 24, 2015 9:38:46 GMT
good to see i'm not the only 1 who does the " it works/its runnin song " , tho my version has dance steps, twirls,high-kicks n kerching's aswell as micheal jackson crotch grabs n squeals , should of kept that to myself eh, i'll get me coat , H
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Post by kidda on Feb 25, 2015 5:59:44 GMT
Nice 1 bruv
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Post by kidda on Mar 3, 2015 19:29:38 GMT
Just an update on events,engine all bolted in,changed the fuel tap the old 1 was right dodgey the fuel wasnt flowing out when turned on so had 2 tip it upside down 2 empty it,removed oil tank and capped off pipe to autolube,going go to full premix at 3% see how it runs,all I need do is add fuel and take it 4a run,orderd a new cdi so that will be the next step if it cuts out,any advice folks?cheers
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