cb
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 64 
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Post by cb on Nov 20, 2014 16:43:23 GMT
Hello. As I was coming around a corner this evening, the bike felt as though it was going under me from the front end. When I got home I checked and the front wheel has, in my opinion far to much play in it. The bearings are not even 6 months old, (hub and back plate bearings), the hub nut is tight. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance..
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Post by henri on Nov 20, 2014 21:18:35 GMT
which bearings are they , as some makes arent fit to throw , i had a set of "all balls racing bearings" ,american so thought they'd be ok ,they lasted bout 1500 miles ,
an have ya checked ya rim to hub nuts recently ,H
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cb
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 64
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Post by cb on Nov 21, 2014 19:52:03 GMT
I think I know what the problem is.. I been doing a little digging around and I am sure the shim between the backplate and forks is missing and also the washer that sits behind circlip which holds the backplate is missing also.. I changed it recently, second hand, I changed part for part and cant remember putting those parts on it...... Its a case of taking hub off again, I hate taking the front hub off it never comes off easy....... lol... I have just got a complete rebuild kit from beedspeed for the hub and backplate.....
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me
High Number
Posts: 105
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Post by me on Nov 22, 2014 13:04:16 GMT
which bearings are they , as some makes arent fit to throw , i had a set of "all balls racing bearings" ,american so thought they'd be ok ,they lasted bout 1500 miles , an have ya checked ya rim to hub nuts recently ,H H The all bearing (ones without a spacer) are really only used for low rolling use. If you can imagine the balls will rub against each other whilst there trying to go around the effect of both movements means the balls actually go backwards whilst the natural force is for them to go forwards..... sh*te way of discribing the effect but i think you know what i mean thats why they don't last long. CB - the d shaped spacer on the back plate is to hold the back plate on with the circlip- nothing really to do with the hub, i'd check the condition of the spindle for wear - also the needle roller in the back of the hub. If the d shaped washer is missing it will make the backplate move in and out of the hub and cause excessive brake judder. |
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Post by henri on Nov 22, 2014 16:12:37 GMT
the bearings i mentioned where caged an designed for "high speed/loads" ,an on a yam motorbike ,i mentioned them to show cheap bearings are a false economy ,an that just coz there newish doesnt mean there still ok, H
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me
High Number
Posts: 105
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Post by me on Nov 22, 2014 21:53:53 GMT
Oh ok... its just you said "all ball bearing" - i thought you ment the uncaged type.
Only use branded bearings and from a proper dealer.
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Post by henri on Nov 23, 2014 11:07:45 GMT
sorry for the confusem , thats was there name " all balls" ,they make? an sell loads of bearings described as "racing" ,american company but crap product , anyways,
cb has the re-build kit fixed ya wobble , H
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cb
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Posts: 64
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Post by cb on Nov 23, 2014 17:35:39 GMT
H. Still waiting for the kit to come. Will put up on here if its a fix... Cheers...
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cb
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 64
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Post by cb on Dec 1, 2014 20:09:29 GMT
The kit went missing, so Beedspeed sent me the washers and circlips to get the job started. The D washer which sits behind the circlip holding the backplate on was missing. I replaced them, but checked again today and there seems to be a bit to much play in the wheel again.. Any ideas please??
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me
High Number
Posts: 105
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Post by me on Dec 1, 2014 22:52:47 GMT
Check the needle rollers in the back of the hub.... also check spindle for wear where the rollers sit. if wheel is wobble it wouldn't be the backplate - there two seperate things - i'm guessing the needle rollers are shot.
Just a thought - when you try to wobble the wheel does the whole thing move ? long shot but check the fork link pivot - the bit on the end of the fork where the fork link attaches.
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Post by henri on Dec 2, 2014 9:43:14 GMT
as stc says ,you need to pin down where the slack is , if you can get a mate to wobble wheel put ya thumb or finger tip over where components meet an feel for movement , rim to hub,hub to backplate or as stc suggests link to pin , if it is the pin rollers its really a shop job ,as you are best doing it with a press , it can be done at home but for the price of half n hours labour its not worth the grief . H
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cb
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Posts: 64
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Post by cb on Dec 2, 2014 11:32:26 GMT
So far, I have locked the forks around in the opposite position to where the steering lock is put on, then from the top of the tyre I am able to move the wheel back and forth, there is play in it. When I had the whole lot off before, the D washer was missing, this is one of the parts I replaced, I really thought that would have been it. I am waiting for the full bearing kit to turn up, then will change the bearings in the hub and back plate.
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cb
1st Class Ticket
Posts: 64
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Post by cb on Dec 2, 2014 16:50:40 GMT
I did forget to mention originally, the forks are extended by 6 inches, this wouldnt have any bearing on the matter would it??
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Post by henri on Dec 2, 2014 17:12:26 GMT
oops , are ya sure the wear/movement is actually in the wheel, as longer forks radically increase the loadings on steering bearings an link pivot pin needle bearings , aswell as wearing out wheel/hub bearings more rapidly , tho sayin that unless they where total no-name chinese bearings they should of lasted more than 6 months ,unless ya half way round a "world tour" , but even with english scooterists being a bit nuts in general nobody ive heard off does that many miles on a chopped px , thats pure insanity , H
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