Polini Vs Malossi

[hully1]

HI all, i have a decision to make this weekend regarding my standard PX 125 and getting a kit fitted. do i go with the Polini 177 or the malossi 166? exhaust is easy going to upgrade to a sip road 2 as been told this will compliment either kits. what do you member's recommend i have around £350 to spend? any thoughts tips much appreciated or if there are any threads on here which have all ready covered this please point me in the right direction.

 

[joey]

Both kits are good but depends on what you're after.
Malossi is a high revving kit that should be thrashed everywhere, Polini is lower revving kit more aimed at torque so better as a plodder.

Both can be just bolted on for a small improvement but to use them to their full potential both require matched casings, a bit of crank work and at least a 24mm carb.

[hully1]

that sounds like it is going to blow my £350 budget!! looking for better cruising and incline speed no longer a boy racer!!

[rab]

You can fit either to standard and get a decent power return without all the porting and carb upgrades but the molossi is highley strung its like a sted head in the gym always wants more .this leaves you with picanso or dr i cant speak for picanso as i have not tried running one .ive come from molossi to dr and fitted a 20/20 carb just for running in period and so far even with it all set standerd im impressed with it .All it will be getting us upjetted once ive done the 400 mile break in .i use it daily 20 mile round trip up n down hill + flat and its more than able to deal with all with ease

[hully1]

see now you have thrown a new one in the mix with the DR which i have had differing reports on. The choice seems to be endless and confusing considering the budget i have. Hopefully will get a few more responses which will help sway me one way or the other as i know there will not be a definitive answer to one particular kit.

[rab]

Dr + non lube carb all new fitted cost me 250 but that was with all new gaskets and seals on the fly wheel side and free up jet once its run in .so for yours it would work out cheeper .jackripper a member on here knows him aswell hes an ex scoter mechanic

[hully1]

HI Rab,
where is he based i am in Gateshead.

[rab]

hes down here in bradford he works from home it will cost you around £50 return in van fuel from gateshead i can get a price off him just for the head and carb doing if you want then you can weigh up the cost inc fuel.he may even collect and drop off as i know he travels the country in his van buying and selling scoots hes built and on runs. i cant recommend this guy enough when it comes to scoots hes the dogs nadders

[hully1]

Hi rab that would be good thanks if you could ask and will compare the costs.

[rab]

just had him on the phone he will collect supply and fit new dr 180 head new 20/20 carb re jet and set it all up then bring it back £350 and i didn't tell him that's what you had to spend that was coincidence lol. if you drop and collect £270 mine was mates rates but still only £20 more than mine

[hully1]

Cheers Rab,

may have been some crossed wires that £350 included the exhaust. but will still have a think about it.

[rab]

this is what mine has in it from beedspeed £150 = Vespa - Conversion Cylinder Kit - DR - 180cc - 10 Port - 63mm Bore

To Fit: P125X, P50X, PX125E, PX150E, EFL, LML
Old Vespa Sprint Veloce, and late Super ( With three transfer ports )

Minachrome cast iron Cylinder ( With Added Chrome ) - 7 transfer ports - Main exhaust port and two added booster exhaust ports.
The cylinder head is especially designed to maximise combustion and ease cooling.
The cylinder has been quite cleverly designed to feed the extra mixture via boost ports in the cylinder wall and holes in the side of the piston making no alterations necessary to the engine casing.

Ignition timing is the standard setting for new models on unleaded fuel which is 18 degrees btdc.http://beedspeed.com/vespa-cylinder-180cc-px125150-p-1987.html    with a standard 20/20 carb for running in then ill up jet it or go back to the 24/24   beedspeed.com/vespa-carburettor-standard-2020mm-p125150x-none-auto-p-4081.html

[sbwnik]

The problem with 'no porting needed' kits is that you'll never get anywhere near the same performance as one that does require porting, for the simple reason that bigger ports suck more fuel into the engine, more fuel = bigger bang, bigger bang = more power!

[rab]

if your not after racing everywhere and just want a good head that will pull you up hills at a decent rate and will do a decent speed on the flat with minor tweaks ie up jet or bigger carb the dr is a good choice .everybody gets porting on the brain the max speed for most scooter users is 50 to 60 for the run guys its 70 if your one of the guys wanting to do 70 motorway speeds buy a 200 lump or use porting. if your one of the guys that doesn't use a motorway you don't need porting and there are heads out there that dont need to be ported that do 60mph if you feel the need to go faster quicker then your riding the wrong type of bike buy some leathers your gunna need them ps thats not aimed at any one its my rant on the subject

[pxguru]

I have two motorcycles on the road, a 600 and an 1100. I still prefer to rider my PX. It's much more fun and so thrashable

The first thing about porting any engine is deciding what you are porting it for Porting an engine is just changing the port timing. the simplest way to test the effect of the transfers is just to put a packer on the base gasket. If it goes worse take it off. No harm done. If you really like it get the barrel done by a pro.

[hully1]

Guys once again this is all fantastic information which i can pass on to my proposed mechanic to do the job and see what he says on the matter, as most of it has gone over my head by quite a distance. Will need to get this sorted ASAP as the days are getting shorter and wetter as i want to get it run in before the worst of the weather gets here for the winter.

[henri]

porting an such like isnt really a science more of a art form/witchcraft ,sound out ya mechanic about his preferences/experience ,as most have preferences on which theve honed the skills needed to get it right .an youve got to be definite about what you want to get from the scoot an the main use your going to put it too afterwards as this will effect what work is needed/wanted an how far to go, which will influence which kit to use as a base .i'm building experience/knowledge about the kits for smallframes an there the dr is seen as a "plug n play" good out the box for mid range tunes ,where as the polini/mallossi are seen as bases that def need work porting,matching,etc to be worthwhile .an the dr's are seen as more hardy of the kits compared to others,which can be tempermental as well as mental when got right.not definite but this seems to be the consensus on large frames aswell .olympia kits come in around the same price as dr but seem to be copys an not quite as good rep. hope that helps,Henri

[hully1]

As always Henri the information on here i believe is second to none. Just wished i understood any of it HA HA HA!!

[baldmeister]

i have a dr180,24mm carb and sip road 2 exhaust , it will sit at 60-65 all day ,pulls like a train up hills .
if thats waht you want then i would reccomend it, but if you want more, buy a 200 and tune that , much more potential!!

[sbwnik]

I keep saying this, but I ran a ported (to manufacturer spec, they come with the kit) Polini 177 for a few years. Upgeared and running a 24/24 and Polini pipe, I had no problems with it, and it was a great rally tool, passing P200s on a regular basis.

The tuning was straight forward (apparently, a mate did it for me!) and well worth the work, going from a plodding 60 odd to pushing 70.

[rab]

make it go fast then weigh it down with chrome hehehe

[hully1]

right think my decision is almost made just need to have final discussion with the mechanic and away we go. is there a minimum / maximum run in time as i am afraid i wont get it run in properly before the winter hits, 100 to 150 miles about right?

[rab]

Depends on the top end normaly its between 4 and 500 hundred miles on new .because i use mine daily its only taking about 5 weeks but this winter shes going in the shed till spring and im buying a winter bike or scoot . 100 to 150 is for rings 150 being on the safe side

[hully1]

Hi Rab,

mine goes away around october if i am lucky as up here in the north east the weather is unpredictable and terrible most of the time. as i am also busy at work not getting as much use out of it as i would like, so was hoping to get it run in before it went away.

[rab]

North east good weather good luck lol im in and out of gateshead 5 or 6 times a month the only place that has less predictable weather is penrith and glasgow

[hully1]

You got it right there Rab the North East weather was not the reason i moved here i can tell you.

[sbwnik]

You can ride them all year round, a lot of people up north do!

I'd not bother running in after 100-150 miles just on a new top end. 1,000 miles after a complete rebuild with all new parts, 500 miles after an overhaul, 100 miles or so for a top end, fifty miles for rings. That's usually about right for me.

[hully1]

Cheers Nik that is roughly the same advice i have been given by some of the lads at our Thursday night meet. thought they were just inpatient buggers.

[rab]

well im sticking to the advise the bike shop gave me 4 to 500 its a lot of cash to re pay for the sake of not waiting

[hully1]

We are Gaz. But with work commitments i am not getting a lot of time to get out on my scoot and want it to be ready to just ride next spring. Being in the northeast the winter can start in August & end in June!!!