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Post by tranquilitybase on Jul 13, 2014 15:24:24 GMT
Hi,
Again, before I do anything wrong I thought I'd ask about such a simple thing as removing the front tyre from my Sportique rim.
Is it sensible to lever it off (after removing the air pressure/valve)? It seems pretty tight and I'm worried about damaging the rim. Is it a case of splitting the rim. I have discovered that the six nuts holding the split rim halves together are 7/16 inch (maybe because it's a Douglas). I tried to undo one after cleaning it/WD40 and the whole bolt turned.
I need to look more carefully (after cleaning up) the "bolt head" but on first seeing this, it seems to be a round head and not hexagonal.....Could be mistaken though.
I'd be grateful for advice on this. Maybe taking it to a tyre fitter is favourite???
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Post by jackthekipper on Jul 13, 2014 15:44:09 GMT
ya gotta split the rims pal to get the tyre off...but..if the whole studs turning it sounds like you need a new set of rims..you could knock the stud out & replace it with an m8 nut & bolt ,but that would be a bodge..best to get new rims
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Post by bryno on Jul 13, 2014 16:34:47 GMT
If you want to save the rim you could gently cut the nut off that stud (dremel) and if the studs ok just get a tack of weld on the back of the stud to stop ot turing when you rebuild them..
But those 8" wheels are pretty easy to find and not expensive as so may people do the 10" wheel conversion, I had 10 of them at one time :-)
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Post by tranquilitybase on Jul 13, 2014 18:47:21 GMT
Many thanks for the information Gentlemen. They're pretty rusty so I might look for some more. Thanks again...
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Post by bryno on Jul 14, 2014 11:26:30 GMT
You can still get them new, personally I'd look for some originals.
Yes, the nuts are an odd sized head on an M8 thread, I believe they are 11mm OD.
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Post by tranquilitybase on Jul 14, 2014 12:03:26 GMT
OK thanks Bryno.
Before I jump in again with my hammer and drift (and possibly heat)....re the trunnion (about 8cm long with a grease nipple on it) right at the bottom end of the fork tube; I can see some needle roller brgs in this which look in a very sorry state. I bet Jumpin Jack Flash was number 1 the last time they saw grease!
To extract the bearings, do they drift out? I can see what looks at first like a washer at each end of the trunnion, but I'm wondering if this forms part of a housing on each side.
The exploded diagrams in my Haynes manual don't help much. There are two versions, neither of which seem to portray what I see. Are there any better books?
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Post by tranquilitybase on Jul 14, 2014 12:04:57 GMT
Maybe "Last time" by the Stones would be a more appropriate number 1 record.
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Post by bryno on Jul 14, 2014 15:20:04 GMT
From what I remember..
You will have either 2 lots of loose needles in cages which are a bit of a PITA to refit or they may be captive caged needles. Either way the 2 races drift out and they won't be hard to remove.
Replace them with the captive caged type, much easier to get it all back together, but there are several options for this so I'd take a size fef from the cage you are removing to be safe..
The washers are seperate parts and just pack out the fork tube at either end.
IMO getting all that lot back together is the worst job you will ever need to do on a Sportique!
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Post by tranquilitybase on Jul 14, 2014 15:35:48 GMT
Thank you for the info Bryno. I do appreciate it.
It's interesting what you say about re-assembly. I had to get the help of a friend when I stripped it down. Everything in that area was seized. I had to use heat, but the main problem I had was holding it steady whilst I used a "persuading stick" and brass drift.
Even if I'd had a decent engineering vice I would still have found it difficult to grip the awkward shape of the lower fork tube sufficiently without an extra pair of hands.
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Post by henri on Jul 14, 2014 18:41:42 GMT
a vice with "soft jaws" either strips of wood or ali angle is best for holding the fork leg whilst stripping an re-building ,use the heat again an the roller bearing come out fairly easyily ,if the rims are really rusty inside its best to replace them ,you can get them blasted or wire wheel them ,but if pitted will never look good ,an if rusted inside an not properly cleaned an painted the rust will wear your inner tubes an give flat tyres ,dangerous if moving when it occurs.an you'll probably find the tyres stuck to the rims with age ,they can be a bugger to get off , a big g clamp an blocks of wood to go between rims ,or a big block of wood in center an stamping with the heel of ya boot ,hot water to soften old rubber an washing up liquid to help them slip helps . Henri
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Post by tranquilitybase on Jul 14, 2014 19:37:34 GMT
Thanks Henri. I'm going to get the needle bearings out on Wednesday. I might order a repair kit from SIP in Germany but not sure which model to choose from their drop-down menu on their site. The closest thing I can see is "150ccm 2T AC 60-67 VBB1-2."
Germany is o long way away but their prices are very good and carriage only 5 Euros. It costs nearly that to send a letter these days. How do they do such cheap carriage?
Anyway, re the wheels. I probably won't need them for months so I'm going to look out for some good used ones.
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Post by henri on Jul 15, 2014 16:17:41 GMT
the vbb's are normally described by there chassis pre-fix ,ie vbb1t or vbb2t ,as piaggio confused things by sticking a sportique badge on when they did a higher spec ,like wheel carrier fitted,or bench rather than single seats ,for your needs a vbb2t is the model to use on drop downs ,the vbb1 an 2 shared most basic parts with sportiques ,i'd of expected a 64 to be a vbb2t ,but the fork legs n rollers are the same . for the rims ,thats the sort of part i'd check the indian new 1's on e bay for ,simple stuff like that the indians manufacture well an cheaper ,ive got em before an they were fine,better than the run of italian italia 10" rims ive had were the studs sheared at finger pressure .good used 1's ,whats good is always a matter of opinion ,sellers n buyers ,an if got from flea bay beware any listing that uses the words "italian,original,rare," as unless the scoots been owned from new for 50 years the seller cant know there origin an originality .an rare is just listing-speak for "i want loads for em" . am about to sort through my rim pile to pick out a good set to go on a douglas sportique thats being painted ,what type hubs have you got on 4 or 5 stud ,i might have a spare pair of decent 8" 4 stud rims ,prob wont have a third for a spare tho, will have a look at weekend ok . Henri
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Post by tranquilitybase on Jul 15, 2014 18:27:16 GMT
Hi Henri,
Thanks for the information clarifying models and also for your thoughts on buying used rims.
Mine are the 4 stud type. Please let me know if you have any. Cheers....
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