si
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 5
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Post by si on Apr 23, 2014 21:25:31 GMT
replaced layshaft 4th gear cog and new Christmas tree on my px 125 built it back up kicked it off tried to put it in first gear and it lept forward and stalled clutch pulled in and it wont roll forward it wont engage same when you try and kick start it in gear with clutch in it should go to the floor am I right the clutch worked perfect before I replaced the bits in the gear box at no point did I take the clutch out while I carried out the work ....im at a total loss with it any advice would be great
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Post by henri on Apr 24, 2014 6:30:47 GMT
when ya split the cases to get to the gearbox did ya do it in the scoot or drop the engine ,coz only thing i can think of this early is clutch adjustment ,or displaced plunger/thimble ,you'll have to pop clutch cover off an have a look ,have ya refilled the gearbox oil before trying ,tho no oil normally gives a dragging clutch rather than no clutch. the kickstart droppping when in gear/clutch in,is for smallframe motors different gearselecter/kickstart arraingment ,as far as i know. H
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Post by sbwnik on Apr 24, 2014 10:02:45 GMT
Exactly the same train of thought as me, with the added observation (I've never known it, because I don't work like that) that when you split the cases, is it possible that the crank could move far enough for the bronze plunger to move out? I can't see it, but you never know....
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si
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 5
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Post by si on Apr 24, 2014 12:00:12 GMT
Thanks for the replies .... The engine was out and on the bench when I split it checked the plunger and it's in place as it should be checked the the crank is still in line and that's fine I have never come across anything like it I'm at a total loss with it. Cos the clutch was working fine before I replaced the gear cogs ...... With all th intenals out if you look at the clutch and move the clutch arm you can see it compressing but put the cogs back in and the cases back together and put it in the frame there is no clutch again ... It feels like it's engaging but put it in gear pull the lever in and it won't free wheel as it should
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Post by sbwnik on Apr 24, 2014 13:28:34 GMT
That's a weird one.
It's going to be one of those 'DOH!' moments, isn't it?
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si
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 5
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Post by si on Apr 24, 2014 16:01:24 GMT
Yeah I think ya right I'm gonna swap all the new parts and put the old ones back in and see what happens from there it's the only only thing I can think of now..... If it works with the old ones back in then again still the problem has to be solved
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bsr65
High Number
Posts: 114
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Post by bsr65 on Apr 24, 2014 16:46:37 GMT
how long was the engine out the frame? your clutch plates may have just stuck together.
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si
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 5
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Post by si on Apr 24, 2014 18:30:03 GMT
Iv had the clutch out now and seperated each plate put it back in still no joy
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Post by joey on Apr 24, 2014 23:57:30 GMT
A few questions here, and not in any logical order, but hey that's how I roll............ I'm disregarding turret depth and plunger as you said clutch worked fine prior to gearbox rebuild.
Why did you change both the input and output shafts? (And how did you manage it with clutch still in, must've been a nightmare.) Does everything turn as normal without clutch fitted? How many cogs on both primary and clutch drive gear (certain configurations will not mesh correctly.) Is the gearbox properly shimmed, i.e. do all the gears align?
Basically a clutch is a clutch. If, as you say, the plates separate with the lever pulled in, then there should be no drive to the gearbox, so the problem has to lie in something that you've changed.
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mickymidas
High Number
2Ronnies sc , Nuneaton.....Promoting chuckleism to the masses
Posts: 232
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Post by mickymidas on Apr 25, 2014 7:41:08 GMT
May be a stray something jammed in the gearing ?......Gear selector rod cruciform washer ?....looks like a strip down again and start from scratch .
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si
2nd Class Ticket
Posts: 5
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Post by si on Apr 25, 2014 11:38:23 GMT
Thanks for the reply again folks.....lay shaft was replaced cos the threads looked a bit dodgy to me and I didn't fancy losin the back wheel fourth gear hog was replaced as there was one tooth missing and the same on the Christmas tree iv replaced cruciform and selector rod aswell
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Post by glscoot on Apr 25, 2014 15:09:34 GMT
I didn't think it was possible to fit xmas tree or remove it without taking the clutch out. normally the first job I do when stripping an engine is to remove the clutch. anyway it would be good to know the clutch & xmas tree ratios so we can work from there. when you replaced the xmas tree did you get all the needle bearings in, without any falling out when you tried to refit into the casings. they will make a mess if theres one inside your engine. you did say that the xmas tree and 4th gear had missing teeth, if thats the case there could be something in the bearings or in the clutch itself. when things like that happen its best to completly strip the engine and give it a good wash out with wd40 or something like that. fragments of the teeth will get everywhere once the oil heats up and your changing gear. I would strip the engine again, you will need new seals, you may get away without changing the bearings. gary
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