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Post by Robjack on Sept 3, 2010 12:52:29 GMT
I changed my gearbox oil and found it to be virtually empty when I drained it. No smell of petrol in what was left of the oil. No signs of any leaks anywhere. So I must be burning it right? I presume this means a seal has gone somewhere? I suppose this means I've got to split the cases? The thought of doing this from a Haynes manual terrifies me (almost as much as paying for it to be done) Also, when slowing down from flat out, when I pull the clutch in, the engine revs have been going up until I drag them down with the engine. I've also noticed that the engine revs have been taking a while to settle back to tickover when sat at junctions etc, but this tends to happen only when on long runs, ie when the engine is hot. I assume this means I'm dragging air in somewhere, but where? I've cleaned the carb and airfilter, all seems well in there. Does anyone have any idea if these two issues are connected? Any tips or guidance greatly appreciated. Rob.
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Post by joey on Sept 3, 2010 14:44:33 GMT
Clutch side seal has gone kid. It's the cause of both problems, on the downstroke it pushes fuel and air into the gearbox and on the upstroke it sucks in air and oil from your gearbox, a double whammy. Anyhoo it's most definately a motor strip so you'd best get your Haynes out, either that or get the motor to Barry and have him do it. Where abouts are you kid, if you're close enough I may be able to help you out. Give us a bell on 07799585426.
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Post by Robjack on Sept 4, 2010 0:27:40 GMT
Thanks Joey. Confirming my fears/suspicions.
Looks like I've got some weighing up to do. I'm going to run it past my Father-in-Law to see if he fancies getting some dirt under his fingernails - he had a bike shop in the 60's and may fancy a go at it with me.
I really appreciate the offer of help and may well be in touch if it looks like I'm out of my depth. (I'm in Helsby by the way) I assume that I might as well renew the crusiform while I'm in there (10K+ miles) do you recommend anything else I should be replacing while it's open, or anything I should have at hand toolwise in order to get the job done?
Thanks again, Rob.
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Post by joey on Sept 4, 2010 6:56:05 GMT
Don't bother buying any parts until it's split kid otherwise you can end up with a laod of bits you don't actually need. If your seal has gone my opinion would be to replace both seals and main bearings while it's split, the rest you can visually inspect once it's apart. You're only 10 minutes away kid so if it goes tits up just give us a shout. Tool wise you're going to need all the normal stuff, socket set, screw drivers etc, but you're also going to need a few special tools, clutch holder, flywheel puller, decent circlip pliers, and depending on clutch version you might need the pegged clutch nut socket. As I say fella I'm always on the end of me phone so just give us a shout if you feel unsure about anything.
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Post by Robjack on Nov 15, 2010 21:24:52 GMT
Finally got this job done. Been doing it in bitesize chunks as work/family duties allow.
It wasn't as bad as I imagined it would be and to be honest I've quite enjoyed finding out how it all goes together. I also found a couple of things extra that needed doing. The first one being that it appears the previous owner had seized the engine a few times before he sold it to me. The barrel and piston were in a right state, and I have never seized it in all the time I've had it. So I've had to have it re-bored and buy a new oversize piston.
The other thing I found was the flywheel side seal was at a point where it would have failed soon, it virtually fell apart when the cases were split. It must have been just about doing its job as, according to Barry T, it would have been unrideable in the condition it was in when it came apart.
I changed the cruciform as a matter of course which was slightly worn and a cheap part to replace. Obviously I changed all the gaskets as well. Everything else was pretty much spot on, all bearings were in good order so I've left them alone.
Thanks to Barry Turner for the re-bore and reassuring advice, and again to Joey for the offer of help. Much appreciated.
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Post by joey on Nov 17, 2010 9:19:04 GMT
If the seals were in a bad way then personally I'd have changed the bearings, better to do seals AND bearings at the same time while the casings are split rather than have to split them again a short time later. Anyway chuffed you got it sorted fella.
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